Raymond Manavi

Raymond Manavi, 34, from Kaminabit village in the Angoram area of East Sepik Province, Papua New Guinea, describes himself as a “struggling artist”.

“I mainly produce tribal extracts based on traditional art,” he says.

“I’ve been painting since 1992.

“I mainly display my works at the Windjammer Hotel in Wewak.

“If there are buyers, I make money, if not, I go home empty-handed.

“Sales, otherwise, are very poor.

“I’m one of the poor artists of Wewak town.

“I have no other job, apart from painting.

“I really want to establish a market for my paintings.”

Mr Manavi’s father was a master carver at Passam National High School outside Wewak, with all his children following his steps as artists.

Jerry Jones Eme

Jerry Jones Eme, from Kaminabit village in the East Sepik Province of Papua New Guinea, is another talented artist struggling to gain recognition.

“I started painting at home,” he recalls.

“At high school, I wanted to become an electronics technician.”

His love for art prevailed, and in 1986, he enrolled at the National Arts School in Port Moresby.

Mr Eme was into studying textiles in 1987 when he left and returned to his hometown of Wewak, East Sepik Province, where he joined local company Wirui Press as a layout artist.”

“I left and went back home to Kaminabit village in 1994,” he continues.

“I tried to get into painting but there was not so much work to sell.

“I also tried to get into t-shirts, prints, and screen-printing.”

In 1999, an Australian visitor, Terry Gallagher, was so impressed with Mr Eme’s paintings in Wewak that he arranged for him to go to Australia.

Mr Eme spent two weeks in Austalia and did an exhibition of his works in Melbourne.

Mr Gallagher continued to be an agent for Mr Eme in Australia, selling his paintings and looking for more opportunitiesd, until he went missing during the 2004 Asian tsunami.

Mr Eme has slipped in obscurity since then, apart from the selling of a big painting in Madang in 2003.

His works are mostly contemporary and abstract paintings.

Taba Silau

Taba Silau, 51, now the director of the Madang Visitors Bureau in the resort town of Madang in Papua New Guinea continues to be one of the country’s leading artists.

He, however, only exhibits sporadically.

In 1975, he was awarded a scholarship to the National Arts School in Port Moresby after completing Grades 11 and 12 at Kerevat National High School outside Rabaul.

There, he organised the school’s first art club and presented his first solo exhibition in 1976.

Disliking the restrictions of school regulations, he resigned from the school in 1977, struggling for the next seven years to survive as a freelance artist until 1984, when he was appointed to the post of Madang cultural officer, working at the Madang Museum and Cultural Centre.

Here, he painted two murals that portrayed the legendary history and cultural revitalisation of the peoples of Madang Province.

Silau remained in the post until the late 1980s, when a severe illness forced him to stop working.

When he recovered, he returned to painting, exhibiting a striking collection of his work at the Papua New Guinea National Museum ad Art Gallery in 1994.

With great expressive power, Silau’s imagery focuses on two primary themes: first the legends and exploits of the traditional peoples and heroes of Madang, which are the foundation of traditional knowledge and world view; second, bitter commentary on what he calls “the confusions caused by modernisation and capitalism” instigated by colonialism.

Silau was the first Papua New Guinean artist to use the figure of the urban beggar to symbolise the breakdown of traditional social life.

Similarly, his bleak images of Irian Jaya criticise the national government for foreign policies that he believes abandons ancient ties to “Melanesian brothers” facing genocide in Indonesia.

These paintings and their associated poems thus symbolise wider political issues that engage the problem of what values are central to the core constructs of Melanesian cultural identity.

In his quest to motivate Papua New Guineans to think about what is happening to their culture, Silau does not shirk the role of social critic.

In his early painting Silau employed a somber palette, ranging from traditional earth tones to bitter citric yellow.

Moreover, the faces of his figures have exaggerated features with brooding staring eyes.

However, there can also be a lyrical pathos, even sweetness, to images depicting traditional subjects.

Recently, Silau’s paintings suggest that his colours are also brighter and that a once-heavy paint texture has lightened to suggest a new transparency of form.

Larry Santana

Larry Santana, now teaching visual arts Tusbab High School in the Madang Province of Papua New Guinea, is recognised as one of the country’s most-talented artists.

His works have been widely exhibited both in Papua New Guinea and abroad.

Santana grew up in Madang after his father found work as a mechanic.

His father’s premature death made life in this urban environment very precarious.

While his mother struggled as a domestic to feed her four children, Larry, the eldest, collected discarded bottles to supplement the family’s meager resources and help pay for school fees.

Despite much hardship, Santana finished high school and won admission to Goroka Technical College.

Obtaining a diploma graphics, he migrated to Port Moresby to work as an artist.

Living in the city was not easy for Santana and his family.

In 1988, he lost his job and home when the advertising firm he worked for went bankrupt.

With no unemployment benefits from the state, he was forced to build himself a shack from materials gleaned from the city dump and to scavenge for discarded food.

The hunger and loss of self-worth experienced during those lean months are recorded in his painting are recorded in his painting, Self-Portrait: Suffering and Pain at the Six-Mile Dump.

In 1993, disaster struck again when a fire destroyed Santana’s apartment and all his possessions.

While Santana’s finely-executed drawings show the influence of his graphic training, the intensity and decorative aspects of his images reflect the advice of an expatriate teacher: to always heed the inspiration of his feelings and to follow his Papua New Guinea sense of design.

Santana’s work is often expressionistic and stylised.

Through powerful symbols – for example, the hand of tradition, fire, tears or high-rise buildings – his subjects express deeper meanings about the values of Melanesian life and reflect contemporary problems of “culture clash”.

Santana says he has found much more inspiration since moving from the noisy capital city of Port Moresby to quite Madang.

“I’m still keeping in touch with the outside world,” he says.

“Madang is very quite.

“Otherwise, it’s much better in Madang because it’s much more inspirational.

“In Port Moresby, my art was not really from within the soul.”

Santana still sells a lot of his work to people from other countries.

Memories of the Biyang Ngayam Cultural Festival

A singsing group dancing on a very high platform?

And members of another jumping into the live embers of a fire, picking them up, and chewing the still glowing coals with their mouths?

No, this wasn’t a scene from Ripley’s Believe It Or Not!

The Popof Village Tree Dancers from the Nawaeb District actually performed on the steps of a very high platform.

And the Danga Village Fire Eaters from the Bulolo District actually ate fire, much to the disbelief of the crowd.

From arts and crafts, singsing groups, and theatre groups to beautiful young women from all parts of the province, the inaugural Morobe Biang Ngayam Festival had it all.

The Sir Ignatius Kilage Stadium in Lae was chock-a-block from May 24 to 27, 2006, as thousands from all corners of Papua New Guinea’s most-populous province converged there.

That year the Morobe Provincial Government and the people of Morobe Province embarked on this second cultural show to promote, preserve and showcase the rich and diverse culture of the province.

A first cultural festival was held at the Sir Ignatius Kilage Stadium in 1998 but went into hibernation for the last seven years simply because of the “no funds” excuse.

The project – aptly named Biyang Ngayam Festival – was collaboration between the Tourism, Culture and Sports Division of the Provincial Administration; educational institutions; the private sector; and the local community.

Biyang Ngayam is a fusion of two of the province’s major languages – Kote and Yabim – and means “good day” or “something good”.

The four-day event was jam-packed with activities ranging from arts and crafts displays, singsing groups, theatre groups, Miss Morobe contest, cultural exhibits, cultural displays and cultural shows.

It was the perfect opportunity to learn, network and talk with the local community about arts, artifacts and culturally-related products.

I was in Lae on Friday May 26 and Saturday May 27, 2006, for that very reason – to collect information and photographs on Morobe arts and crafts for a forthcoming international online exposition in Chinese Taipei later that year – and wasn’t disappointed.

And, being a Morobean who had been away from home for a long time, I naturally got caught up in all the enthusiasm down at the stadium.

The theme of the 2006 festival was “Culture is the People” and the honour was attributed to the people whose lifestyle shapes the culture of the Morobean society.

The four-day festival showcased the importance of the lifestyle of the Morobeans, which forms the very core of Morobe Province’s culture.

It aimed to achieve the following objectives:
Showcase the cultural heritage of Morobe Province through dances/singsing groups, artifacts/handicrafts, and promote culture through theatrical developments;
Revive the cultural tradition and lifestyle of the Morobeans; and
Promote and establish understanding among the Morobe communities to maintain, protect and preserve its unique cultures.

“The unique cultural heritage of Morobe Province is a pot of gold and if given the highest attention, will generate enormous employment and revenue for the province in years to come,” said veteran Morobe Administrator Manasupe Zurenuoc.

“This event must be seen in the context that it is a great substitute for the non-renewable sector of the economy.”

The event was opened by Governor General Grand Chief Sir Paulias Matane on May 24, 2006, and closed by Deputy Parliament Speaker and Kabwum MP Bob Dadae on May 27, 2006.

Prominent Lae businessman Fred Cook, a strong advocate of culture and tourism in the province, was chairman of the organizing committee.

“As far as I’m concerned, it was a wonderful success,” Mr Cook said.

“I don’t think that anywhere else in Papua New Guinea do we have such a diverse group of people.”

“I think that all the districts did a marvellous job in bringing the various dance groups to take part in the activities.

“I think they should all be commended for their efforts.

“As far as I’m concerned, I’ll be recommending to the provincial government that the festival should be an annual event.

“My reason is that if we want to have tourists coming, we have to have dates set every year.”

The climax was the crowning of the Miss Morobe Queen and the judges truly had an unenviable task on their hands, given the bevy of village beauties from all over the province.

Needless to say, it really came down to the wire, and the winner was Anne Kupu, a young village girl from Barang village on Siassi Island.

Runner-up was Ruth Jethro from Butibam village in Lae and second runner-up was Augusta Hagai from Morobe Patrol Post.

And then the carnival was over and all eyes were glued to the next one in 2007.

Ol lain o…..one for the day…PNG VERSION OF MR. BEAN - CODE NAME: KANAGE

Kanage bought a new mobile.
He sent a message to everyone from his phone book & said, 'My mobile no. has changed.
Earlier it was Nokia 3310. Now it is 6610'
====================================
Kanage: I am Proud, coz my son is in Medical College.
Friend: Really, what is he studying?
Kanage: No, he is not studying, they are studying him.
==========================================
Kanage: Doctor, in my dreams, I play football every night.
Dr: Take this tablet, you will be ok.
Kanage: Can I take tomorrow, tonight is final game.
===========================================
Kanage: If I die, will u remarry?
Wife: No! I'll stay with my sister. But if I die will u remarry?
Kanage: No, I'll also stay with your sister.
=========================================
Kanage complained to the police: 'Sir, all items are missing, except the TV in my house.'
Police: 'How the thief did not take TV?'
Kanage: 'I was watching TV news...'
=========================================
Kanage comes back 2 his car & find a note saying 'Parking Fine'
He Writes a note and sticks it to a pole 'Thanks for complement.'
=============================================
How do you recognize Kanage in School?
He is the one who erases the notes from the book when the teacher erases the board.

===============================================
Once Kanage was walking he had a glove on one hand and not on other.
So the man asked him why he did so. He replied that the weather forecaster announced that on one hand it would be cold and on the other hand it would be hot.

==================================================
Kanage was at a bar and his cellular phone rings. He picks it up and says 'Hello, how did you know I was here?'

===================================================
Kanage: Why are all these people running?
Man - This is a race, the winner will get the cup.
Kanage - If only the winner will get the cup, why others running?

===================================================
Teacher: ‘I killed a person' convert this sentence into future tense
Kanage: The future tense is 'u will go to jail'

=====================================================
Kanage told his servant: 'Go and water the plants!'
Servant: 'It's already raining.'
Kanage: 'So what? Take an umbrella and go.'

=====================================================
A man asked Kanage why Sir Michael Somare goes walking in the evening and not in the morning.
Kanage replied, 'Sir Michael is PM not AM'.

Iruupi, like every place you’ve never been

Papua New Guinea today remains one of the most culturally-diverse and unexplored nations on the planet.

Scattered inland are many small villages, each group practicing their own native tongue and traditions, eking out a living from the surrounding land.

Travel to the remote village of Iruupi, Western province, and you will have to be prepared to do lots of walking.

To travel to Iruupi, you have to fly in to Daru Island, and then be prepared to make a crossing back to the mainland on a fiberglass dinghy.

Despite the short crossing, with a heavily-laden boat, it can be quite treacherous at times when winds make for heavy seas.

Once across the strait, the dinghy sets a course adjacent to the mainland shore along the beach and an extensive coastal coconut grove comes into view, the subject of a fierce land dispute between Badu-suki tribe and others for centuries.

The dinghy gives the mouth of the Fly River a wide berth, paying respect to its strong currents before again trekking close to the shore, and to the mouth of the Kura River about 30 minutes later.

From here the 5 to 8km journey along the Kura is much slower, low tides necessitating care is exercised in negotiating fallen trees, sand banks, the occasional goanna and keeping an ever-present watch for a disgruntled crocodile.

Finally, it reaches the landing point Lani, the mangroves and palms along the muddy riverbanks giving way to grassland and a few of the ubiquitous gardens that would later become evident.
From Lani is a narrow marsh road to Iruupi village.

A short walk by village standards, some 5-6km, weaves through overgrown grasses, bamboo forests, swamps, marshes, and surprisingly, many eucalypts.

For the people of the village, every tree, every scratch in the dirt and ever tract of water is inextricably linked to some significant story or event.

Traversing a waist-deep small swamp reveals the first sighting of traditional Iruupi houses – bamboo constructions on the outskirts of the village, supported by poles with an under storey platform where inhabitants can gather away from the heat of the day, each distinctively different in those erected in other provinces through Papua New Guinea.

Upstairs are verandahs, bedrooms and a traditional kitchen – the timber strutted floors covered with woven mats to maximise comfort (in Daru, many of the more ‘westernised’ pre-fabricated houses still have a traditional bamboo kitchen erected at the rear).

In the main village, houses are erected around the periphery, enabling the central areas to be used as common meeting, play and performance areas.

Villagers do all the hunting, cooking, washing and other chores, leaving visitors idle to simply enjoy the surroundings.

Villagers tend to their gardens each day, rich with taro, bananas, greens, melons, pineapple and other fruits planted for harvesting in the dry season.

Skilled hunters meant there is a ready supply of deer, wild pig, wallaby and cassowaries.
These will be brought back to the village strung over bamboo poles, while hunting implements are carried in a free hand.

Kupilute is a large lagoon, believed to be sourced by a well of unknown depth in the middle, and linked to creation stories of the Bewani people.

It is believed the well forms the basis of a tunnel that goes all the way to the Australian mainland.

When diving for fish, prawns or lobster in the lagoon, locals skirt the edges, fearful of an encounter with Sapi-dade, a dreaming spirit.

Paying homage to the spirits in the appropriate way ensures there is a plentiful supply of seafood.

Yet another walk to a place called Imbade reveals a broad and pristine river that must be crossed in a dugout canoe or outrigger to reach the village of Masingara, home of warring tribes and family of the Badu-suki tribe of Iruupi village, some 2-3 hours away.

Most nights are filled with exotic and traditional dance in preparation for an upcoming event.
Pointing the torch to the lagoon beyond the washhouse reveals the red eyes of a crocodile, each night keeping watch.

For the people of the village, a simple taro or coconut is treated as a prize, yet readily shared among others, to ensure no one goes without.

Each and every person is proud of and well-schooled in their culture and identity, benefiting from an almost unspoiled existence with limited contact with the white people, in contrast to some of the major centres where the negative effects of colonisation and decolonisation, subsequent to Independence, can be observed.

In leaving the village for the long walk to Lani, through a procession of well-wishers and tearful souls, one can enjoy the breathtaking scenery.

At Lani, it is last goodbyes, the sun poking through and the promise of a return in the future to renew special bonds, as the dinghy heads for the open sea.

Minji, Mamne, Ato!

Memories of the Kokoda Trail

As I struggled up the grueling last climb from Goldie River to Ower's Corner, finally reaching the top at exactly 10.45am on Saturday, June 7, 2003, I staggered on to the memorial arch, punched the air, and tears started uncontrollably streaming down my eyes.
Exhilaration filled my heart as I felt what Sir Edmund Hillary must have felt 50 years ago when he was the first to climb Mount Everest.
And the words of that great man, which I had read time and again in my build - up towards walking the Kokoda Trail, reverberated through my whole being:" It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves."
The sense of achievement, of having overcome adversity after being through the most - excruciating physical pain in my life, overwhelmed me.
I had become ill with flu and malaria along the grueling WW11 trail, had inflamed both knees that I could hardly walk and was on the verge of being airlifted out, but had overcome these to complete the trek in seven days
Fears about the trek, hopes about reaching the end of the journey, at first seemed insurmountable; but they were met and conquered.
It brought out of me hidden physical and mental reserves that I never knew that I had!
Walking the Kokoda Trail made me envision the journey of life itself beginning with one small step, followed by another and another, until somehow, with time, you ultimately reach the pinnacle by taking it step after painful step.
And I now know that although there will be many more mountains to climb and rivers to cross in my life, I will be stronger because of "the spirit of Kokoda".
I was part of a group of 19 - nine trekkers (eight Australians and myself), nine porters and a guide - who walked the Kokoda Trail from June 1 to 7, 2003.
We left Port Moresby at 9.55am on Saturday, May 31, 2003, on an Airlines of PNG Twin Otter piloted by the experienced Captain Michael Butler, flying over the spectacular Owen Stanley Ranges starting from Sogeri on through the Kokoda Gap into rural Kokoda which we arrived in at 10.20am.Kokoda Airstrip
Kokoda is a sleepy little outback town whose serenity completely belies what happened there 66 years ago.
The Japanese captured Kokoda on July 28, 1942, and advanced over the Owen Stanley Ranges towards Port Moresby.
Australian soldiers delayed and finally halted the enemy at Ioribaiwa Ridge on September 26, 1942.
The 7th Australian Division began an offensive, which drew the enemy back through Kokoda to the coast, around Buna, where Australian and American troops combined to destroy the entire Japanese force.
We had a look around the Kokoda War Museum, memorials, and Australian - funded hospital before trekking off to Hoi village at 12pm.
Hoi, an hour's walk from Kokoda, is a clean, well - kept village besides a clean mountain stream.
We overnighted there amidst thousands of fireflies lighting up the night.
We left Hoi at 9am on Sunday, June 1, 2003, for the start of our exhaustive week - long trek.
From the onset, I realised that I had not done sufficient training, as the strain of mountain climbing and equally stressful descents started to take their toll.
We had a break from 10.30am till 12pm besides a cool mountain stream, before trudging on to Isurava, arriving there at 2pm.
Isurava, which Australian Prime Minister John Howard visited in August 2002 to open the magnificent war memorial, was the site of a significant WW11 battle and now one of the most - sacred sites along the trail.
The four-day Battle of Isurava along the Kokoda Trail in 1942 would not, in isolation, be regarded as a victory for Australian forces.
During the period from 27-30 August 1942, under almost constant attack, soldiers of the 39th Australian Militia Battalion and the 2/14th Battalion, Second Australian Imperial Force, with the help of the 2/16th Battalion and the 53rd Battalions, held back the advancing Japanese at Isurava.
It was here that Private Bruce Kingsbury of the 2/14th Battalion was post-humously awarded the first Victoria Cross ever won on Australian territory, as Papua then was, for bravery.
On Monday, June 2, 2003, we left Isurava at 7am for the next village of Alola, which we arrived in at 8.30am.
After a brief stop for fruit and vegetables, it was more descending and ascending.
We had lunch at Eora Creek, by which time the beginnings of flu and malaria were beginning to make their presence felt.
The exhaustive climb and ensuring descent to Templeton's Crossing was an absolute nightmare as I struggled with flu and malaria, my knees and hips felt like they were going to pop out of their sockets, and I was constantly out of breath.
I stopped on several occasions, and at one stage even slept on a mat of leaves for a good 30 minutes, so as to regain my strength and energy.
As I wandered, zombie - like in a delirious state through the forest, my thoughts went to the most precious things in my life: my wife and two sons.
The two boys had been down with flu the night before I left for Kokoda, and I would have cancelled the trip, had it not been for the insistence of the wife.
All I could think about was the ice cream and pizza I would have with my two sons once I completed this hellish journey.
I arrived at Templeton's Crossing at 4pm, the very last person, and immediately dived into my sleeping bag in a feverish state.
I awoke later in the evening covered in the sweat of fever, had dinner, and went back to the sack under the forest canopy and millions of twinkling stars in the night sky.
I got up early the next morning, Tuesday, June 3, 2003, feeling much better and stronger than the previous day.
We started at 8am and struggled up Mount Bellamy, which at 2190 metres is the highest point of the trail, reaching the summit at 10am.
I felt as if I had climbed Everest!
From then on it was down, up, down, up, down, up, ad infinitum - on a painful left knee - until we took a detour from the main track to the village of Naduri.
One of the best villages along the trail, Naduri is the home of Ovuru Ndiki, one of the last surviving 'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels'.
We had plenty of fresh bananas, oranges, mandarins, sugar fruit, kaukau, taro, and - needless to say - good sleep at Naduri.
Both knees started giving me problems when I started off at 7am on Wednesday, June 4, 2003, with Kevau, my personal guide and porter, who stood alongside me all the way.
Unlike the other guides and porters, who are all Koiaris, 19 - year - old Kevau is from Rigo in the Central Province and his father is the United Church pastor at Sogeri.
We took an exhaustive two-hour climb to Efogi No. 2 village, arriving at 9am, and then the steep and painful one-hour descent descent to Efogi.
At Efogi, we picked up much- needed food supplies, which had been dropped off a week earlier by chartered aircraft.
Efogi, like the other villages along the trail, do not have regular airline flights like in the past and chartered flights and helicopters only use its airstrip.
We had a good rest and lunch before Kevau and I started on the climb up Brigade Hill, little knowing that I was going to go through the most - hellish, painful experience in my life.
Climbing up the hill overlooking Efogi was a walk in the park; however, the same cannot be said for what ensued.
Climbing up to the top of Brigade Hill - which together with Isurava is one of the most sacred sites of the track - pain started in both knees.
I was in the most - excruciating agony, every step I took I felt a sharp knife driving through my knees, and I can honestly say now that I do not know where I found the mental and physical reserves to carry on.
I had read about the 'pain barrier' of humans; now I was undergoing my own.
Brigade Hill down to the village of Menari is one of the steepest and most - tiresome descents of the trail, one, which I will always remember as the longest, and most - painful walk in my life.
The body was screaming for mercy while the mind countered: "Go on Malum!"
To ask for help from the guides and porters would have been throwing in the towel.
It took me five agonising hours to hobble down from the top of Brigade Hill to Menari.
The considerate guides and porters rubbed hot leaves on my knees and with some powerful painkillers from Andrew, a South African who works as an IT specialist in Brisbane, and his lawyer girlfriend Amelia, the pain was alleviated to some degree.
Thursday, June 5, 2003, was I day I'll remember for all the wrong reasons, as it was pain, pain, pain all the way up the steep saddle and swampy, stinky, and muddy descent to Naoro village.
It was then that the guides and porters - by consensus - told me that they would have to radio for a helicopter to carry me out.
Who was I to argue with them? In the state I was in?
Before coming, friends, colleagues, and workmates had jokingly told me that I wouldn't make it; that I wasn't fit enough.
And now, my worst fears were about to come true: I wouldn't be able to complete Kokoda Trail! I would be the butt of jokes around the office! I'd die of shame!
More leaves and traditional medicine from the guides and porters, coupled with powerful painkilling and anti-inflammatory drugs from the Australian trekkers, and sprinkled with physical and mental reserves I never knew I had seen me make an amazing about turn.
I started walking at 4am on Friday, June 6 - for 12 straight hours - up the heartbreaking nine false peaks of the Maguli Range and then took the long, steep, and muddy descent to Ofi Creek where we spent the night.
Same story next day as I was up early, and with the finish line in sight, easily tackled the remaining steep hills, Ioribaiwa, Imita Ridge, and then descended 'The Golden Stairs' to Goldie River.
A last refreshing dip and I climbed up to Ower's Corner like a man possessed, reaching the top in record time ahead of everyone else.
Kokoda has made me realise many things.
I now better appreciate the rugged and heartbreaking terrain the Australians, the 'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels', and the Japanese encountered during those dark days of WW11.
The hardships the forgotten Orokaiva and Koiari people who live on the mountains, ridges, and gullies of the Owen Stanley Ranges endure daily brings tears to your eyes.
The smiling, happy faces of children as they called out a "hello" to visitors - amidst these abject hardships - brings so much joy to your heart.
You find peace and beauty in nature, with answers to troubling questions being found on the wind, in the trees, in the song of birds, in the pure voice of an ever - flowing mountain stream splashing over the rocks, and in the stillness of the forest.
Being along the Kokoda Trail, one becomes aware of the infinite circle of life: there is evidence of decay, destruction and death; there are also examples of rejuvenation, restoration and renewal.
But most of all, it has shown me that the human spirit can triumph over adversity.
Do it again? Of course I will.

I celebrate my 41st birthday by trekking the Kokoda Trail

I celebrated my 41st birthday the hard way by walking part of the Kokoda Trail from Owers Corner to Ua Ule Creek last Saturday, and back on Sunday, together with senior management and staff of Telikom.
It all started on Tuesday last week when my good mate Defol Jabbar, who runs up-and-coming trekking company Fuzzy Wuzzy Expeditions, asked me to accompany Telikom management and staff on the two-day trek.
Last Saturday was to be my birthday, and after weighing all the pros and cons, such as the fact that I would be away from my four young children, I took the gamble to walk Kokoda.
I walked the full Kokoda Trail from Kokoda to Owers Corner in 2003 and in 2004 walked from Kokoda to Isurava and back, so this would be my third trek, although I have written countless articles and taken hundreds of pictures about this WW11 icon.
Last week was also not the perfect one for me, with so much stress, that I decided that Kokoda would provide the much-needed therapy that I needed.
The late Sir Edmund Hillary, the first to climb Mount Everest in 1953, once remarked:" It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves."
Fears about the trek, hopes about reaching the end of the journey, at first seemed insurmountable; but they were met and conquered by the hardy Telikom staff including a female.
It brought out of them hidden physical and mental reserves that they never knew that they had!
Walking the Kokoda Trail made them envision the journey of life itself beginning with one small step, followed by another and another, until somehow, with time, you ultimately reach the pinnacle by taking it step after painful step.
The 15 staff - from marketing, regional operations and supply andlogistics divisions - walked from Owers Corner to Imita Ridge and downto Ua'Ule Creek last Saturday, overnighted, and then returned alongthe same route the next day.
In a nutshell, the Japanese captured Kokoda on July 28, 1942, and advanced over the Owen Stanley Ranges towards Port Moresby.
Australian soldiers delayed and finally halted the enemy at Ioribaiwa Ridge on September 26, 1942.
The 7th Australian Division began an offensive, which drew the enemy back through Kokoda to the coast, around Buna, where Australian and American troops combined to destroy the entire Japanese force.
For some of the trekkers such as marketing manager Jerry Damoi -overweight, unfit and out of shape - it was a real eye opener.
"Initially, it's about team building, wellbeing and fitness," he said.
"The idea is to mix management, team leaders and top management andsend them in a team to the famous Kokoda Trail to really get to knoweach other better.
"The terrain is quite challenging and brings out teamwork andtogetherness beyond the office, general wellbeing, as well as fitnessand a healthier lifestyle.
""What better place than the Kokoda Trail to have such a particulartherapy take place?"
Kokoda has made the Telikom employees realise many things.
They now better appreciate the rugged and heartbreaking terrain the Australians, the 'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels', and the Japanese encountered during those dark days of WW11.
The hardships the forgotten Orokaiva and Koiari people who live on the mountains, ridges, and gullies of the Owen Stanley Ranges endure daily brings tears to your eyes.
The smiling, happy faces of children as they called out a "hello" to visitors - amidst these abject hardships - brings so much joy to your heart.
You find peace and beauty in nature, with answers to troubling questions being found on the wind, in the trees, in the song of birds, in the pure voice of an ever - flowing mountain stream splashing over the rocks, and in the stillness of the forest.
Being along the Kokoda Trail, one becomes aware of the infinite circle of life: there is evidence of decay, destruction and death; there are also examples of rejuvenation, restoration and renewal.
But most of all, it has shown them (and me) that the human spirit can triumph over adversity.
The trek was facilitated by 100% nationally-owned company Fuzzy WuzzyExpeditions, which also organises similar treks for major corporateentities such as SP Brewery and Ela Motors.
Senior staff and management of Telikom, including CEO Peter Loko, willhave a series of Kokoda treks over the next few weeks.
Port Moresby journalist Stan 'The Man' Ivahupa from the NationalBroadcasting Commission and yours truly accompanied Telikom managementand staff on the first trek last weekend.
Mr Ivahupa featured it on his morning show on Monday morning.

Telikom management and staff tackle Kokoda Trail

Telikom trekkers walking down the hill from Owers Corner to Goldie River
Telikom management and staff at Owers Corner before the start of the trek

Senior management and stafff of Telikom had a taste of the ruggedterrain of the Kokoda Trail last weekend.

The 15 staff - from marketing, regional operations and supply andlogistics divisions - walked from Owers Corner to Imita Ridge and downto Ua'Ule Creek last Saturday, overnighted, and then returned alongthe same route the next day.

For some of the trekkers such as marketing manager Jerry Damoi -overweight, unfit and out of shape - it was a real eyeopeningexercise.

"Initially, it's about team building, wellbeing and fitness," he said.

"The idea is to mix management, team leaders and top management andsend them in a team to the famous Kokoda Trail to really get to knoweach other better.

"The terrain is quite challenging and brings out teamwork andtogetherness beyond the office, general wellbeing, as well as fitnessand a healthier lifestyle."

"What better place than the Kokoda Trail to have such a particulartherapy take place?"

The trek was facilitated by 100% nationally-owned company Fuzzy WuzzyExpeditions, which also organises similar treks for major corporateentities such as SP Brewery and Ela Motors.

Senior staff and management of Telikom, including CEO Peter Loko, willhave a series of Kokoda treks over the next few weeks.

Port Moresby journalists Stan 'The Man' Ivahupa from the NationalBroadcasting Commission and Malum Nalu accompanied Telikom managementand staff on the first trek last weekend.

Mr Ivahupa featured it on his morning show on Monday morning.

I just walked part of the Kokoda Trail

I celebrated my 41st birthday by walking part of the Kokoda Trail from Owers Corner to Ua Ule Creek on Saturday, and back on Sunday, together with staff of Telikom.

I will post full pictures and stories later.

Malum

Goodwill messages from September 16th, 1975

Messages from many lands expressed goodwill towards, and recognition of, the new nation of Papua New Guinea. Selections and excerpts are presented below:

CANADA

"On behalf of all Canadians, I am pleased to extend to you and to the people of Papua New Guinea our congratulations and very best wishes on attaining independence……”......................

Gules Leger
Governor-General of Canada

EUROPEAN ECONOMIC COMMUNITY

"........... We are pleased to see Papua New Guinea taking her place in the community of independent Nations and we send all our good wishes of prosperity and happiness to the people of Papua New Guinea."

JAPAN

"I have the honour to inform your excellency that the Government of Japan recognises Papua New Guinea as of 16th September, 1975. The Government and people of Japan offer their heartfelt felicitations to the Government and people of Papua New Guinea on its independence ……”

Takeo Miki
Prime Minister of Japan

REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

"We fully share the immense joy of the people of Papua New Guinea on that historic day, marking the birth of an independent and sovereign Nation and State of Papua New Guinea. Such joy is also shared by the 130 million Indonesian people. On this auspicious occasion therefore, I would like to convey the fraternal greetings of the people of Indonesia to the people of Papua New Guinea ……”

Soeharto,General
President

REPUBLIC OF NAURU

"……We peoples of the South Pacific especially look with pride and satisfaction on what has already been achieved in the establishment of your new nation. We are confident that, with God's help and with the leadership which your country has, that nation will grow in strength and unity amid peace……”

Hammer De Roburt
President

REPUBLIC OF PHILIPPINES

"……The people of the Philippines share with the people of Papua New Guinea their pride and joy on this historic occasion, which marks yet another milestone in the struggle for freedom of the peoples of the Western Pacific……”

F.R. Marcos
President of the Philippines


SOLOMON ISLANDS

“……We have admired the great scope of your celebrations and have been deeply impressed with the manner in which they conveyed the significance of the dawn of independence……”

Donald Luddington
Governor

Songs of unity

Come September 16, 2008, Papua New Guineans will join together to celebrate our 33rd anniversary of independence, linking hands to the refrain of “Oh Arise All You Sons”.
As we all join hands, spare a thought for other unity songs of that eventful period of PNG’s history, which did so much to bring together the many different tribes of this country.
“Oh Arise All You Sons” – the National Anthem – was composed by Tom Shacklady, the bandmaster of the Royal PNG Constabulary Band, and won a competition for a new anthem in the period just before independence.
It is interesting to note that when the competition was on, the song “Papua New Guinea” – composed by the remarkable Geoffrey Baskett – was proposed by many people.

Papua New Guinea

Our land is the island of high mountains,
Of sunlit palms and coral sea,
Where our people sing while the drums are beating,
For our land is strong and free.
Papua……….New Guinea……….

Papua New Guinea our Motherland
Every tribe and race, let us work together,
United we shall stand

There’s a bright new day dawning for our land
As every tribe and race unite
Sons and daughters arise, we’ll advance together
With God to guide us in the right.
Papua……….New Guinea……….

Papua New Guinea our Motherland
Every tribe and race, let us work together
United we shall stand.

Baskett, the founder of Lae-based Kristen Redio, also wrote three other songs which are printed is a hymn book that is in wide use in PNG.
Two of these songs – “Islands and Mountains” and “We Are Free” – reflect his great love of a country he spent nearly 60 years in and for which he was awarded the MBE in 1990.
Baskett was born at Kohat in the high Himalayan mountains of India and lived a fascinating life, one which every schoolboy dreams of.
As a teenager, he left Sydney for a six-week visit to Kwato, an island off the southeast coast of Papua.
That visit turned into nearly 60 years of service to the nation of PNG.
Baskett first came to PNG in 1933 and worked day and night shifts on tractors and a gold dredge on the Bulolo gold fields, served on the islands and mainland with Australia New Guinea Administrative Unit (ANGAU) during World War 11 when he rose through the ranks from private to captain.
He also worked in various capacities on the staff of the well-known Kwato Mission and founded a complex for the production of Christian radio programs for 19 radio stations before his “retirement” to Australia.
Baskett tells of the songs he wrote, and his love for PNG, in his autobiography “Islands and Mountains”.
“Four songs I have written are now printed in a hymn book that is in wide use in Papua New Guinea, and I have often thought that these songs have contributed more to this nation than any book I could have written,” he writes in the book.
“After all, a book once it has been read is usually put away on a shelf for a very long time before it is read again, whereas a song, usually a hymn, is used time and time again, often long after the death of the composer.
“One of the songs in the hymn book is called ‘Islands and Mountains’…the first verse reads:
Islands and mountains, sunshine and breeze,
Flowers and moonlight, swaying palm trees,
Jungles and rivers, white coral sand.
This is my country, this is my land.

“I wrote that for a children’s concert at Kwato, making up a tune with a suitable waltx-like rhythm.
“As it was often sung to visiting tourists, it became quite popular, especially among the Scouts and Guides.
“When some Guides sang it at a gathering in Port Moresby, it was learned by a group of Australian Guides who then took it back with them.
“Soon afterwards, I was asked if it could be printed in their Australian Guides’ songbook and I of course gave them permission.
“It is now known through international Guides’ circles as the ‘Song of Kwato’.”
Such was the impact of the song that a tobacco firm in Australia actually plagiarised its words and used them to promote its cigarette sales in Fiji.
Baskett reveals: “There is an interesting story about this song.
“A friend of mine was working for a firm in Australia which makes ‘floppy’ discs for gramophones.
“These were made by the thousands and given away as advertisements by various firms.
“One day, I received a phone call from him asking me if I knew that a tobacco firm in Australia was using my song commercially to boost their sales in Fiji.
“It appeared that he was working on the production of several thousands of discs which would be enclosed in a Fijian newspaper.
“The firm had used my tune but altered the words of some of the verses to fit the Fijian scene and my friend had already printed hundreds of the discs before he thought of phoning me.
“The words were also printed on an enclosed brochure extolling the firm’s cigarettes and this was put in every newspaper to make sure people got the message.
“I wasn’t particularly happy with the idea of my song being used to promote tobacco sales – being a non smoker – but as two of the lines said ‘we’ll build Fiji now as God has planned, make this his country, make this his land’, I was very much in favor of that idea spreading through their nation.
“So on that basis, I wrote to the manager of the firm and told him that they should have asked for my permission before printing my song and going ahead with their advertising venture.
“However, as they had already spent a great deal of money on the advertisement, it would be in order for them to proceed.
“The manger answered very apologetically and sent me a cheque for A$100 so that settled that!
“But I always feel that it was more than just conincidence that of the millions of men in Australia, the one who had been given the job of printing the floppy discs should have been a personal friend of mine who knew the tune I had composed.”
“Papua New Guinea” was composed when Baskett was working with the Department of Information.
He recalls that the director called him up one day and said that the team going to the South Pacific Games was looking for an anthem to sing, and as at that time PNG did not have a national anthem, could he do something about it for them?
“I had always enjoyed a tune which is very widely known around Port Moresby ‘Papua e, oi natumu ahaodia…’ and I thought of using this and putting new words in English to make it suitable for the occasion,” Baskett writes in Islands and Mountains.
“As the song was always sung in Motu, it was not widely known throughout the country and I thought it would be a good chance to teach others this most-attractive melody.
“Later, it was written out for the Police Band, and in time the tune was known nationwide.
“When there was a competition for a new National Anthem, this song was proposed by many people, but one that was written by the bandmaster at that time ‘Arise All You Sons’ was chose and is now the PNG National Anthem.
“Papua New Guinea” has become a popular national song and is often heard on the radio.
“The same song was sung by a group of students during a visit by Sir Paul Hasluck, who later became Governor-General of Australia,” Baskett recalls.
“After listening to the song, which speaks to us about uniting to build our nation, Sir Paul said, ‘well there is no need to make my speech now, you have sung all that I planned to say out!’”
Also at the time of independence, Baskett entered a song, which won first prize in the solo section, although he did not sing the solo.
Entitled “We Are Free”, it is now played on the radio each year during Independence Day broadcasts.
“So, as I said, I think there is more value in composing a song that is known to many thousands of people than in writing a book that is read by relatively few,” Baskett says.

Islands and Mountains

Islands and mountains, and sunshine and breeze,
Flowers and moonlight, swaying palm trees,
Jungles and rivers, white coral sand,
This is my country, this is my land.

Dark were the days when men lived in fear,
Fear of the arrow, stone club and spear,
Fighting and hatred filled every land,
That was my country, that was my land

Then came the change that brought peaceful days,
News of our Saviour, learning his ways,
Darkness is fading out of our land,
We know the peace of His guiding hand.

What of the future? Soon we shall be,
Teachers and leaders of our country,
We’ll build our nation as God had planned,
Make this His country, make this His land.

Then shall our country be free and strong,
Homes will be filled with laughter and song,
Peace in our hearts and work for our hands,
Unite our nation with other lands,
Unite our nation with other lands.

We Are Free

Like the birds as they fly over high mountains,
Like the fish as they swim in the sea,
Like the clouds as they float in the clear blue sky,
We are free! We are free! We are free!

Like the songs of a bird at the break of day,
Like the wind in the leaves of a tree,
Like the waves as they break on a coral shore,
We are free! We are free! We are free!

Independence has come, now we all must work
To unite Papua New Guinea,
We shall build our new nation in peace and love,
We are free! We are free! We are free!
We are free! We are free! We are free!

September 16th 1975

It was a truly moving ceremony and indeed a grand finale to Australian rule in Papua New Guinea.
Tears fell freely for many, a moment they shall never forget, as the Australian flag came down for the last time.
Just after 5pm on Monday, September 15, 1975, George Ibor, Warrant Officer, 2nd Class, of the 1st Pacific Islands Regiment, stepped into the centre of the Hubert Murray Stadium in Port Moresby.
A military band, accompanied by the percussion of a thousand clicking camera shutters, played “Sunset” as Warrant Officer Ibor lowered the Australian flag, folded it and handed it to Sir John Guise, the Governor-General of Papua New Guinea.
Australian colonial rule in Papua New Guinea had ended.
Sir John stressed that the flag was being lowered and not torn down, and that the years of transition from Australian rule to Independence had been happy and peaceful.
Sir John Kerr, the Australian Governor-General, taking the liberties with history that such occasions permit, asserted that Papua New Guinea and Australia had “by and large” worked in harmony, and had thus avoided the policies and relationships which had proved so tragic elsewhere.
At midnight on Tuesday, September 16, 1975, Governor-General Sir John Guise declared: “Distinguished guests, visitors from overseas, people of Papua New Guinea.
“Papua New Guinea is now independent. The constitution of the independent state of Papua New Guinea, under which all power rests with the people, is now in effect.
“We have at this point in time broken with our colonial past and we now stand as an independent nation in our own right.
“Let us unite, with the almighty God’s guidance and help, in working together for a future as a strong and free country.”
At one minute past midnight, fireworks resembling the twin plums of a Bird of Paradise heralded the start of a new day, a new era and a new Nation State.
Simultaneously, a 101-gun salute from HMAS Stalwart of the Royal Australian Navy occurred accompanied by HMNZS Tarenaki.
On the morning of the first day of Independence for Papua New Guinea, flag raising ceremonies took place throughout the nation.
The ceremony in Port Moresby was conducted at Independence Hill overlooking the main city centre.
International guests in national dress and western dress assembled for the occasion.
Former Administrators D.O. Hay and J.K. Murray, and former Minister for External Territories C.E. Barnes were among the spectators.
Prince Charles unveiled a plaque to mark the site of the new National Parliament building.

The Governors-General of Papua New Guinea and of Australia followed by the Commander of the Defence Force Ted Diro and Police Commissioner Pious Kerepia inspected the plaque, which was followed by the planting of trees.
The Papua New Guinea flag was presented by the Governor-General to the Commander of the Defence Force and the Police Commissioner.
It was placed over three drums from the 1st Battalion Pacific Islands Regiment Band and blessed.
The Flag Party and guards slowly marched up Independence Hill and hoisted the new nation’s flag above the plaque commemorating the ceremony.
Prince Charles later officially opened the First National Parliament of Papua New Guinea.
He read a goodwill message from the Queen, and officially opened the first National Parliament.
He looked to a future of promise, opportunity and individual freedom, and reminded the elected representatives of the great burden of responsibility which they had shouldered.
The action moved back to the Hubert Murray Stadium where a crowd of 14,000 witnessed a long and colourful ceremony during which the country’s political and legal leaders pledged their allegiance and loyalty to the Independent State of Papua New Guinea,
Governor-General Sir John Guise was sworn in by the Chief Justice of Papua New Guinea, Sir Sydney Frost.
Deputy Prime Minister Sir Albert Maori Kiki was sworn in by the Governor-General, and the Prime Minister Michael Somare signed a Declaration of Allegiance.
Members of Parliament were sworn in by the Governor-General.
Cultural aides from Sogeri Senior High School represented Papua New Guinea in a ceremonial gift exchange with representatives of many nations, international organizations and the United Nations.
Messages from many lands expressed goodwill towards, and recognition of, the new nation of Papua New Guinea.
Prime Minister Michael Somare held a press conference where he preached the virtues and necessity of “pulling up our socks” to a largely sockless nation.
He also stressed a commitment to self-reliance while Australian Prime Minister Gough Whitlam gave a “categorical and unequivocal” assurance that Papua New Guinea would have first call on Australia’s aid program.
Celebrations continued throughout the land.
On Wednesday, September 17, the Royal Australian Air Force and Air Niugini carried the Royal Party on its tour of five provinces throughout the mainland: East Sepik, Eastern Highlands, Chimbu, Western Highlands and Western.
People returned to their villages, put away their spears, kundus (hand drums) and bilas (finery) and recommenced the familiar daily round.
What would Independence bring to them?
Only time – now 33 years – would tell.