Tufi's eco-tourism potential

Jetty at Sinapa built by local people.-pictures courtesy of DOUG ROBBINS
Eugenia Graydon from Uiaku village beating tapa
Bridge between Uiaku and Ganjiga villages over Vayova village
Women at Kewansasaf village listening to Doug Robbins

Afternoon at Airara village

Canoes at Sinapa village
Applying sand on mats at Sinapa village
Meeting at Sinapa village

Unfinished tapa bags at Uiaku village

Unfinished tapa bags at Uiaku village
Tapa products at Uiaku village
Tapa hats at Uiaku village

A woman dying tapa at Uiaku village

Woman with bags at Uiaku village

Ganjiga village

Doug Robbins with Josephine and Charlies Await at Fofo village
Guesthouse at Iu-ai-iu village
Tom and Blanchley Maroroa in front of their guesthouse at Awanen

Woman at Sarad station, Wanigela

Koreaf village

Tufi dancers

Pottery at Koreaf village

Mat making at Koreaf village

Arriving at Guruguru village along the Totore River

Lake with Mt Victoria in the background

Sunset over Guruguru Lakes

Crocodiles at Guruguru village

By MALUM NALU

Coming back to Collingwood Bay in Tufi, Northern province, is for Australian Doug Robbins like arriving at a place he’d never quite left.
Robbins, you see, served as a kiap (patrol officer) in the then Northern district from 1969-1973, two of those years at Tufi, hence has extensive general knowledge of it pre-independence.
Now aged 66, Robbins was in the country from April 9 to June 4, carrying out an eco-tourism business study for Australian Business Volunteers.
Northern province, particularly Tufi, is close to his heart and he takes to the job with gusto.
Before leaving for Australia, Robbins has a meeting with me, during which he talks about the tremendous eco-tourism possibilities for Northern province and shows some of the hundreds of photographs he has taken.
“I was in Papua New Guinea as a patrol officer from 1969-1973,” he tells me.
“Two of those years, I was stationed at Tufi.
“Tufi and Safia were my favorite districts.
“I did a lot of patrols out of Safia.”
During the time that Robbins was in the country, he spent three weeks - from April 16 to May 6 - doing the hard yards on his former kiap stomping grounds.
He visited numerous villages including Kofure, Uiaku, Kewansasap, Gegerau, Reaga, Airara, Sinapa, Ganjiga, Iu-ai-iu, Fofo, Awanen, Tufi station, Wayug, Sarad station (Wanigela), Naukwate, Koreaf, Tumari, Guruguru, Yogoru and Erika.
“We were received very enthusiastically by the communities, who are all in favour of becoming involved in eco-tourism,” he elaborates, “whether that is guesthouses, homestays as well as trekking.
“Collingwood bay was the main target for the assignment.
“We also visited parts of the Cape Nelson area and Lower Musa.
“The other satisfying thing for me was the enthusiasm, not only at the village level, but right up to higher levels.”
Robbins, in a report he has compiled for ABV, talks highly about the eco-tourism possibilities for Nothern province.
“Tufi district as a whole is virtually undisturbed and rich in natural and cultural attractions ideal for eco-tourism,” he writes.
“Collingwood Bay has been recognised since 100 years before independence as scenically attractive.
“Lower Musa has a much more-remote wilderness feeling.
“Popondetta has uninteresting groves of palm oil and a lot of seemingly-idle open country.
“Driving through it on Thursday, May 6, after three weeks in the field, I asked why, therefore, would distant Collingwood Bay need to be targeted for oil palm blocks.
“It begs the question: is it the timber that is the real and only prize?’
Semi-formal discussions with the village chiefs and community-based organisation committees and other community members were held in various Collingwood Bay village shelters starting from Kewansasap at the southern end of Northern province, and around Cape Nelson to the Lower Musa.
Women were noticeably in attendance, asking questions and expressing opinions.
“We learnt on our return to Uiaku from Sinapa on Saturday, April 24, that the women had requested an evening audience which we had around a fire in the village square,” Robbins notes.
“About 20 women raised important issues such as the high cost of travelling to Popondetta to sell tapa products, only to return with their earnings being used up in repaying monies borrowed for the fares.
“They want a tank for water supply, training for tour guides and, in their words, ‘all things relating to hospitality’.”
Generally, there are two types of eco-experiences available in the district: there are a number of good through walks (treks) including wartime routes and the other is ‘stationery’ village-stays with shorter trips to attractions.
Natural: “Among natural features are the high mountain backdrops, forests, a rare palm, orchids, waterfalls, hot springs, lakes, lagoons, rivers, birds including one with toxic feathers, butterflies, tree kangaroos, bandicoot, crocodiles, mangroves (with boardwalks proposed for better appreciation, fish and coral.
“Prof John Cox of the University of Hawaii tourism facility visited Tufi late 1971 at the invitation of the then pre-independence government to study the tourism facility in the area.
“He concluded that the scenery, together with the beaches, is by far the best in the Pacific.”
Cultural: “Traditional village housing, hunting, sago-processing and food from the gardens and forest, fish, mud crabs, prawns and crayfish from the waters; canoe-making, canoeing and rafting; arts and crafts including making tapa cloth and various tapa products, clay pots and ornaments, pandanus mats and bags, wooden objects and shell necklaces; customs, facial tattoos, traditional songs, dance and costumes; legends, stories, sacred sites and stone writings of unknown origin; and language translators at Ganjiga and Erika.”
History: “Christian missions, colonial administration, wartime involving Australian and American troops directly connected with the Papuan/Kokoda campaign, including allied camps, airstrips and aircraft crashes, Japanese burial sites and the substantial recruitment of local men as carriers on the Kokoda Trail (Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels).
“Of significance is the arrival of the very first ‘tourists’ (sailors) as long ago as 100 years before the country’s independence.
“Viewing the full length of Cape Nelson from the southern end of Collingwood Bay, their world-travelled captain wrote that ‘altogether the features of this lofty promontory are so striking’ that he ‘resolved to honour them with great names’.
“Furthermore, the resources acquired there (firewood) they paid with axes, mirrors and turkey red cloth (money being of no use to the inhabitants).
“On another occasion, the local made it clear that these intruders were not welcome, hence then naming of Spear Point.”
Many people contributed to Robbins’ successful trip including Cathy Starling and Rodela Demo of ABV, Adelbert Gangai and Andrew Yabara of Oro community Environmental Action Network (OCEAN), Gideon Ifoki Namii of Collingwood Bay Conservation and Development Association (CCADA), community-based organisations, clan chiefs, and Damien Ase, Marjorie Warisaihor and staff at the Centre for Environmental Law and Community Rights (CELCOR).
Coincidentally, Delbert Gangai’s late father, Randolph, used to be an interpreter for Robbins during his kiap days.
Last year, when Robbins visited Tufi, he was asked by CELCOR to carry out the study, given his extensive experience as a kiap.
‘When Doug (Robbins) got to Australia, he got in touch with CELCOR and that’s how it all came about,” Gangai reveals.
“We engaged him under ABV.
“The report has raised a lot of excitement in the communities.
“We’ve already put together a sample walk.
“Doug has recommended a lot of training.
“We want to ensure that ownership remains with the people.”

Sepik artifacts to sell for K4m

By SINCLAIRE SOLOMON

 

FOUR very rare artifacts from the Sepik River are expected to sell for about K4 million at an auction in Paris, France, next week, The National reports.

They included one of the oldest PNG artifacts in existence – a 107cm magnificent figure of the Ewa people of Karawari River, Middle Sepik, which has been dated to between 1440 and 1650 by the C14 method.

The Ewa figure, according to auction house Sotheby’s, which is conducting the June 16 sales, is worth at least 500,000 euros (K1.69 million)

“It is a superb illustration of the conceptual boldness and ethereal beauty of a tradition whose sculpture counts among the oldest,” it said in its online sales catalogue.

Following the tremendous success of Sotheby’s New York sale on May 14 where one Sepik artifact, the Biwat male ancestor, sold for a record K5.87 million to an anonymous European buyer, interest can be expected to be high on the Sepik carvings, espe-cially the Ewa figure.

Another important male figure from the lower Sepik, standing 71.5cm tall, is expected to draw buyers. It is valued at 350,000 euros (K1.18 million) and was first publicly displayed at a 1930 exhibition in Paris by French art dealer Pierre Loeb.

“Its long curved nose, typical of the Kandimbong figures which portray the tribe’s mythical founder,” the Sotheby’s catalogue said.

Sotheby’s said the Sepik artifacts were among the most carefully curated ensembles of African and Oceanic Art to be offered on the market in recent years.

The other Sepik artifacts which are expected to sell well are a 40.5cm very rare Biwat mask (50,000 euros or K177, 000) and an equally rare 25cm crouching female figure from Lower Sepik worth the same amount.

Sotheby’s said: “The June 2010 auction pays tribute to the eye of John Friede and his work in promoting the recognition of the art of New Guinea.”

In total 12, PNG artifacts from the Marcia and John Friede Jolika Collection “illustrate the archaic beauty and power of New Guinea art”.

Five of these objects were formerly part of the collection on view at de Young Museum in San Francisco, but were acquired by Sotheby’s in February following a court order to sell and recoup money it is owed by the Friedes.

Interestingly, the Biwat mask was initially acquired by expatriate art buyer Wayne Heathcote, who has been linked with

the illegal export of PNG

artifacts which are classed national cultural property.

Two of these state items, from Sepik River, are in the Jolika Collection at the de Young Museum which Culture and Tourism Minister Charles Abel visited on Wednesday to discuss with museum officials their possible return.

Sotheby’s New York has assured The National that none of the items it acquired from the collection for auction are state-protected items.

Viewing of items for the Paris sales artifacts starts today and continues until June 15, the day before the auction.

 

Papua New Guineans join church of scientology

By ALISON ANIS

 

MORE than 300 people in the National Capital District have signed up for training courses offered by the church of scientology through its team of volunteers, The National reports.

Since its official opening and welcoming ceremony on Monday, scientology volunteer ministers have attracted many city residents to their exhibition tents at the Murray army barracks playing field.

Australian team leader Mathew Andrews confirmed yesterday that he had recruited seven PNG volunteers to help with the training of participants who signed up to learn more about the group and its ways.

“Many people have shown an interest.

“We are getting about 100 people a day and have more than 300 here with us,” Andrews said.

He said since putting out advertisements in the newspapers, he had been getting between 30 and 40 calls a day from people wanting to know more about the organisation.

Andrews, who was running a training programme for the new recruits at the campsite yesterday, maintained that scientology was all about helping people help themselves and others in overcoming life’s problem and make the world better.

 “Our aim is to pass on the knowledge of scientology to people which they could use to deal with their lives’ problems,” he added.

The training programmes are conducted for free.

The organisation boasts of more than 200,000 volunteer ministers in 193 countries around the world.

Roz Savage and the polluted seas of Papua New Guinea

Roz Savage rowing into Madang last Friday with a Papua New Guinea flag.-Picture courtesy of SIR PETER BARTER

By MALUM NALU

It is one of the proudest moments in the life of British ocean rower and environmental campaigner, Roz Savage, when she is feted like royalty when she arrives in Madang last Friday after an epic 47-day rowing voyage from Tarawa in Kiribati.

She enters the Solomon Sea past Cape Henpan at the top of Bougainville Island, and then gets swept south a bit before starting to make more progress west.

She approaches Madang from the southeast and the full GPS record of her voyage can be found on http://rozsavage/roztracker.

Savage makes landfall last at 8am last Friday, completing her three-stage trip and becoming the first woman to row solo across the Pacific Ocean.

Sadly, she admits, when she passes into Papua New Guinea waters, the flotsam and jetsam is beyond comprehension.

“Sad to say,” she tells The National, “I saw plastic pollution when I was still many miles from land.

“Empty water bottles, styrofoam, yogurt pots, etc.

“Also raw sewage.

“It was the worst ocean pollution that I have seen in all the time that I have spent on the Pacific since I left from San Francisco.”

Her main concern about Pacific waters, after rowing from Tarawa to Madang: “Mostly the plastic pollution, which I have seen first hand.”

This leaves Savage very much concerned about the fragile eco-system.

“This is a huge question!” she adds.

“I am writing a whole book on the subject, so it's hard to know where to begin.

“To boil it down: I am a selfish environmentalist.

“I plan to live a long life, and if we carry on as we are, by the time I am my mother's age, we are going to be living on a planet wracked by drought, famine, and massive migrations of people fleeing from rising seas as we feel the effects of climate change.

“That is not the kind of planet I want to live on.

“So I am doing my bit to encourage people to consume less - especially plastic - and to take better care of our planet.

“It's the only one we've got!”

Savage is born on Dec 23, 1967, in Cheshire, England and lives most of her adult life in London.

Now of no fixed abode, she is constantly traveling, i.e., rowing around the world.

She goes to school in various places, and given that her parents are Methodist preachers, she moves around a lot.

She starts rowing at age 18 when she starts at the University of Oxford., as she feels like “I ought to do some exercise, and want to be able to eat more without getting fat”!

Savage then gets bitten by the long distance rowing bug.

“I wanted to have an adventure, and there wasn't much else I knew how to do,” she says.

“I’d always thought you had to be a particular kind of person to be an adventurer, and didn't think I could ever do it myself.

“But then read about a married couple who set out to row the Atlantic.

“The husband couldn't handle it and had to be rescued from their boat, but she carried on and finished alone.

“So that helped give me the confidence that maybe this was something that I could do.”

Her major rowing feats since then have been:

• 2006 solo Atlantic from Canaries to Antigua;
• 2008 solo Pacific I from California to Hawaii;
• 2009 solo Pacific II from Hawaii to Kiribati; and
• 2010 solo Pacific III from Kiribati to Papua New Guinea.

She has many close calls during her time of living dangerously on the high seas.

“In 2007 I had an aborted attempt on the Pacific,” Savage reveals.

“I was 10 days out from California when I ran into heavy weather and 20 foot waves.

“My boat capsized three times in 24 hours and sustained some damage.

“I would have carried on, but somebody reading my bog decided to send out the US Coast Guard to get me, without asking me first.

“So I was airlifted, and then had to launch an urgent salvage mission to get my boat back.

“It cost me a lot of money, and I had to wait another nine months before the season was right for me to try again.”

Then, of course, there is the obvious question of whether she is married and has children.

“I was married,” she replies.

“Now divorced, but still on good terms with my ex.

“No children.”

Savage is, however, very close to her mother Rita.

“My mother, Rita, is in her seventies now,” she reveals.

“My father died in 2004, just before I started ocean rowing.

“Either through my rowing or through the loss of my father, we have become much closer.

“When I first told her that I was going to row the Atlantic, she really hoped that I would change my mind.

“But then, when she saw that I was determined to do it, she decided to give me her support.

“And ever since she has been very involved with my rowing.

“She worries less the more she is involved.”

Savage blogs and twitters from sea using her Iridium satellite phone as a data modem to post blogs and tweets.

“It is slow and expensive, but it is really important to me to share my adventure with my online audience, to encourage them to care about the oceans and the world in general.”

She will be in Madang for one month “talking at schools, exploring the area, meeting people, and getting my boat ready to be shipped to Australia”.

Her next rowing epic will be across the Indian Ocean from Perth in Western Australia to Mauritius in Africa, which she estimates “very difficult to say, as so much depends on the weather and currents in any particular year.

“I will take enough food for about 130 days”.

Savage gives kudos to Madang and PNG.

“Madang is beautiful, and the people here have been incredibly friendly and welcoming,” she says.

“Lots of people have wanted to shake my hand, take my photograph, and have me sign something.

“It is very touching.

“They really seem to understand what I have done, and why. I am very pleased that I decided to come here.

“I'd also like to say a huge thank you to the thousands of people who came to greet me last Friday.

“It was one of the most amazing days of my life.

“I have been very touched by the warmth and friendliness of the people in Madang, and hope that they will continue to follow my adventures and environmental campaigns.”

Another blast from the past

From PAUL OATES

Under the heading in local newspapers 'PM Takes Journos to task', Papua New Guinea's Prime Minister Somare attacked local journalists saying they were not good enough to get a job anywhere overseas.
He claimed that PNG journalists were only reporting bad news about their country and paying too much attention to what NGO's were saying.
What Sir Michael either can't or won't understand however is the PNG journalists are only reporting facts.
The detrimental effects that his own government is imposing on his own people and their way of life are his responsibility, not that of PNG reporters.
It is not PNG that is being misrepresented.
What Somare doesn't like the look of when he reads the morning's news, is the big mirror the press are holding up in front of him and his cartel.T
he means to change what Sir Michael doesn't like are solely with himself.
Trying to shift the blame to innocent journalists only highlights and compounds the injustice
______________________________________________
Today's The National

PM takes journos to taskPrime Minister Sir Michael Somare hit out at PNG newspaper journalists yesterday, saying they were not good enough to get a job elsewhere in the world.

Speaking at a news conference in defence of controversial Environment Law amendments passed by Parliament recently, the prime minister questioned the credentials and training of reporters.
He accused journalists of taking a lot of issues "out of context" and not giving the people the right information.
"I'm not very happy, some reports are very detrimental to what government has done. You are most privileged group of people. Expressing views against the government is a constitutional right, but sometimes when there are no facts, your report is detrimental to our country.
"I have not seen in any (newspaper) column praising this country. I thought you are a trained mind, reporting with facts and responsibility."
He accused reporters of giving too much coverage to NGOs "who are not representatives of the people".
"Most of you are young people. You are lucky you got only two newspapers in the country.
"You apply for a job internationally, you think they'll give you a job with this reporting that you've got? No. You have to be factual, you have to be accurate. You have to know your subject matter."
He said when he went overseas to promote PNG on the global stage, he was accused of going on jaunts.
"I travel to put PNG on the map, when I come home I get reports from people like you, which are pathetic.
"One feels what's the point of wasting time trying to promote a country which does not know what it is talking about."

Maori experts travel to Papua New Guinea on experience sharing mission

Rino Tirikatene (left), the Maori delegation leader, greeting chief Heni Totona of Lealea village with a "hongi" - a traditional Maori form of greeting.-Pictures courtesy of NEW ZEALAND HIGH COMMISSION
Members of the delegation with children and local chiefs at Lealea village. Members of the Maori delegation from left are Richard Manning (camera around his neck), Toa Pomare (checked shirt), Harvey Bell (white shirt), Raniera Bassett (black shirt and trousers) and Rino Tirikatene (holding the bag).In terms of Lealea elders: chief Heni Totona is in the centre in blue patterned shirt and on his right is Maba Lohia
Members of the Maori delegation on the wharf at Lealea

By MALUM NALU

A group of seven New Zealand Maoris are visiting local Papua New Guinea land and resource owners to share their experiences in turning land-based resources into thriving businesses.

The Pacific Cooperation Foundation (PCF) of New Zealand is leading the delegation and has set up meetings in Port Moresby and Madang with representatives from the PNG forestry and fishery sectors as well as other community groups to discuss how natural resources are utilised for maximum economic benefit.

The group combines extensive experience in fisheries, forestry, agriculture, horticulture, geothermal energy, land investment, logistics, communications, funds management and banking.

The companies and trusts they represent manage business assets worth billions of dollars.

The group was in Port Moresby on Monday and Tuesday and yesterday (Wednesday) traveled to Madang where it will be until Saturday before returning to New Zealand June on Sunday.

In Port Moresby, the group talked to LNG project landowners from the villages of Lealea, Papa, Porebada and Boera, among others.

Members were formally welcomed at a function at the New Zealand High Commission on Tuesday evening.

Delegation leader Rino Tirikatene, from the PCF, said it all started in 2008 from a request by former PNG Prime Minister Sir Rabbie Namaliu.

“The purpose of our trip is we are responding to a call by Sir Rabbie Namaliu made at the Melanesian Symposium that we hosted in 2008,” he told The National.

“He said there should be greater engagement between Maori and Papua New Guinea resource owners and there may be things we can learn from each other.

“In addition to Sir Rabbie’s call, the Prime Minister (Sir Michael Somare) was in the country about a month ago, met the Maori, and made the same call.

“We’re here to listen, learn and share experiences.

“And hopefully, we want to sustain this.

“We don’t want this to be a one-off thing.”

Maori, the indigenous people of New Zealand, are now significant stakeholders in the country’s primary sectors such as fisheries, forestry, land and agriculture.

The PCF seeks to foster better relationships between Maori and Melanesia, especially PNG, whereby well-developed and successful Maori enterprises make have valuable contributions towards improving asset management and resource utilisation in PNG.

Another landmark development for Nambawan Super and project partner

An artist impression of the new building for Department of Lands and Physical Planning to be built soon

Nambawan Super has again embarked on a new property development in Port Moresby.
This time the development is taking place in Waigani and is being purposely built to accommodate the specific needs of the Department of Lands and Physical Planning in serving the people of Papua New Guinea.
In a ground breaking ceremony yesterday, Chairman of Nambawan Super, Sir Nagora Bogan, said the new development, in which Nambawan Super takes up 65% interest, will be constructed by a new joint venture company, Waigani Asset Limited with Lamana Development taking the balance of 35% ownership.
Sir Nagora, said the construction of this office building is a result of a landmark decision endorsed by the National Executive Council in June 2007 based on three recommendations which were:
• that the Department of Lands and Physical Planning be accommodated in a purpose design building;
• That a land information database be updated with appropriate hardware and software;
• and that a professionally designed customer services counter be organised to serve all respective divisions.
“It has been three years since that decision and extensive work has been undertaken with our investment partner Lamana Development Limited, to create a building suitable for the requirements of the Department of Lands and Physical Planning”, said Sir Nagora.
Features of the new building include: three commercial floors, basement car parking with capacity to store more than 80,000 land title files, service counters, ATM banking facilities and a common library.
The new building has been designed by architects ETS Group, and will be built by Lamana Development Limited. Construction is expected to be completed in August 2012.
Key officials at the ground breaking ceremony included the Deputy Prime Minister and Minister for Lands and Physical Planning, Sir Puka Temu, and representatives from Nambawan Super Limited, Lamana Development Ltd and Department of Lands and Physical Planning.