The Search for the Flying Dutchman: A Journey of Discovery and Remembrance

Hidden deep within the misty peaks of the Owen Stanley Range, where time stands still and history whispers through the trees, an extraordinary discovery unfolded in 2024. It was here, amid the untamed wilderness of the Ghost Mountain Trail, that Australian adventurer and writer Peter Gamgee, with the invaluable assistance of local villagers, rediscovered the wreckage of the long-lost Flying Dutchman—a Second World War C-47 transport plane that had vanished into the Papua New Guinea jungle on 10 November 1942.

 

This momentous occasion, which took place on 4 October 2024, was more than just a historical milestone. It was a tribute to the 23 men aboard that ill-fated flight, a solemn acknowledgement of their courage, and a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.

Peter Gamgee and local villages at the crash site of the Flying Dutchman

                                  Click to watch the full video interview with Peter Gamgee

 

A Flight Into History

 

The Flying Dutchman was en route from Port Moresby to Pongani when it encountered a sudden downdraft, causing it to clip trees before crashing into the mountainside. Six men perished instantly. Over the following days and weeks, the survivors endured unimaginable hardship, battling hunger, exhaustion, and the unforgiving jungle. Their story was immortalised in a makeshift diary, written on the plane’s lavatory door, now famously known as the Diary Door.

 

Each entry on the door paints a haunting picture of their struggle:

 

10 November 1942: "Crashed 1:30 pm Tues. 10 of Nov. – 17 men alive."

 

12 November 1942: "4 men started for help."

 

23 November 1942: "Last cigarette - even butts."

 

7 December 1942: "Year ago today the war started. Boy, we didn’t think of this then."

 

30 December 1942: "Johnnie died today."

 

1 January 1943: The final entry—a silent testimony to their fate.

 

These words, preserved in history, serve as an emotional reminder of their sacrifice and endurance. The Diary Door now rests in the National Museum of the United States Air Force, an eternal witness to their final days.

 

Rediscovery After 36 Years

 

The wreckage had been visited only twice before—in 1961 and 1988—before it faded from public knowledge. For decades, the location of the Flying Dutchman remained uncertain, a lost relic of wartime tragedy. That is, until Peter Gamgee set out on a mission fuelled by passion, history, and the dream of bringing new light to an old story.

 

Armed with archival research and local knowledge, Gamgee and a group of 26 villagers and guides embarked on a gruelling trek through the dense, rain-soaked mountains. The journey was arduous—steep inclines, chilling cold, and days of relentless searching. But then, on 4 October, their perseverance paid off. Pieces of the aircraft emerged from the jungle, leading them to the wreck itself.

 

“I wasn’t sure until I saw it with my own eyes,” Gamgee recalls. “But when I did, I knew we had found the Flying Dutchman. It was an overwhelming moment.”

 

Gamgee described the difficult conditions of the journey, saying, “It was tough and beautiful. The walk up the range from Lorona meant climbing about 2,000 metres in just two days. The jungle is just as it was in 1942—wild, remote, untouched. It was a real challenge, but with the support of the local people, we managed.”

 

On the moment of discovery, he shared, “We had split into two groups, searching in different directions. Then suddenly, one of the locals came back very excited, shouting that they had found it. The celebration was incredible. The team had done something truly special.”

 

Reflecting on the significance of the site, Gamgee said, “When I saw the wreck, it was like stepping back in time. The jungle had tried to reclaim it, but you could still see parts of the aircraft—an engine, twisted metal, the remnants of its story frozen in time.”

 

He also spoke of the emotional weight of the discovery: “This was not just an aircraft. This was a place where men fought for survival, where hope flickered in the darkest of times. To stand there and imagine what they went through—it was humbling.”

 

A Legacy of Remembrance and Renewal

 

Beyond its historical significance, this rediscovery has the potential to transform lives. Gamgee envisions using the site to promote philanthropy, tourism, and economic development for the local communities along the Ghost Mountain Trail.

 

“The people here own this place, and they are the true custodians of its history,” he says. “They should benefit from sharing this incredible story with the world.”

 

He hopes that the discovery will create opportunities for the community, adding, “Now that we know where it is, we can plan. Maybe take people up there, show them the incredible hospitality of the villages along the way, and make this history come alive again.”

 

For Gamgee, the journey was never just about finding the plane. “I wanted to do something bigger than just a search. I wanted to help these communities, bring attention to their needs. If this discovery can lead to better healthcare, education, and economic opportunities for them, then we’ve truly achieved something.”

 

For many, the story of the Flying Dutchman is more than a wartime tragedy; it is a testament to resilience, brotherhood, and hope. The six men who survived endured against all odds, their willpower defying the crushing weight of despair. And now, with its rediscovery, their legacy lives on, inspiring a new generation to honour the past while forging a better future.

 

A Call to Remember

 

As the sun sets over the Owen Stanley Range, casting golden hues across the jungle canopy, one cannot help but reflect on the echoes of history buried beneath its towering trees. The rediscovery of the Flying Dutchman is not just an expedition’s success—it is a reminder of the sacrifices made in distant wars, the enduring bonds between nations, and the indomitable strength of the human spirit.

 

This is more than a story of war and loss. It is a story of courage, remembrance, and the undying hope that even in the most forgotten corners of the world, history will find a way to be heard.

The Legacy of Lae International Hotel: A Vision of Excellence and Determination

In the heart of Lae, a city known for its industrial strength and historical significance, stands the iconic Lae International Hotel—an enduring testament to the vision and resilience of Sir Bob Sinclair. What began as a historic property owned by Qantas in the 1950s has, through determination and unwavering commitment, transformed into a premier establishment that embodies world-class hospitality in Papua New Guinea.

 

A Vision Takes Flight

 

Sir Bob Sinclair’s journey began in 1978, when he, along with his partners Graeme Dunnage, Graham Francis, John Haugie, and Robin Kumaina, took a bold step in acquiring the property from Air Niugini. At the time, Papua New Guinea was still finding its footing after independence, and opportunities to invest in such ventures were rare and fraught with obstacles.

 

Despite their passion, the consortium faced significant roadblocks. The Morobe Provincial Government, under Premier Utula Samana, refused to engage in the project, leaving the group to fund the venture independently. Corporate giants like Steamships sought to acquire the hotel, yet Sir Bob remained steadfast in his vision. He was determined that Lae International Hotel would not just be another commercial property but a symbol of excellence for the people of Papua New Guinea.

An aerial view of Lae International Hotel

Click to watch Sir Bob Sinclair tells the story of Lae International Hotel in this video interview:

                        

 

Recalling a critical moment, Sir Bob shared: “We went to the provincial government to ask if they were interested in taking shares in the hotel. Unfortunately, at the time, Utula Samana wouldn’t see us. He kept sitting in his office while we waited outside. John Haugie and Robin Kumaina got upset because we were left waiting for hours. Eventually, Samana stormed out of his office yelling, ‘Get out of my office!’” This unexpected resistance led to the partners increasing their own stakes in the hotel, ensuring it remained independent.

 

Overcoming Challenges, Building a Legacy

 

With resilience and business acumen, Sir Bob and his partners nurtured the hotel, ensuring that it would not only meet international standards but also serve as a source of employment and professional growth for young Papua New Guineans. From its modest beginnings as the TAA Lodge, the hotel grew into a world-class facility, offering top-tier hospitality and amenities that rival those of international luxury establishments.

 

One of the greatest challenges came from corporate competitors who sought to acquire the hotel. Sir Bob vividly recalls: “Sir Danny Leahy and Sir Mike Bromley from Steamships always wanted to buy the Lae International Hotel. But I told them, ‘If you got the Lae International Hotel, you’d stuff it up!’ I told their chairman, ‘You guys don’t maintain your hotels, you don’t put the money back in. If you got the Lae International, you’d ruin it.’” His unwavering commitment ensured that the hotel remained independent and continuously reinvested in quality and service.

 

One of Sir Bob’s most cherished achievements is the employment and mentorship of young Papua New Guineans. “Some of the staff are only 19, 20, or 21 years old, and they’re learning how to serve and interact with international guests. It broadens their view of life, gives them confidence, and makes them feel they have a future.” Many of the hotel’s employees have grown in their careers, taking the skills learned at Lae International Hotel to greater opportunities.

 

An Unwavering Commitment to Excellence

 

Over the years, Lae International Hotel has undergone a remarkable K30 million renovation, ensuring that it continues to set the standard for hospitality in Papua New Guinea. Sir Bob’s meticulous attention to detail is evident in every aspect of the hotel—from the beautifully landscaped gardens to the locally crafted furniture that adds a unique touch of Papua New Guinean heritage to the interiors.

 

“This is the hotel I built,” Sir Bob proudly states. “Even the Prime Minister and the Governor have given me their best wishes for the hotel, recognising it as the leading international hotel in Lae.” His dedication to maintaining world-class standards has set the hotel apart from others in the country.

 

Beyond aesthetics, the hotel stands as a beacon of quality service, with staff trained to offer an exceptional experience to visitors from around the world. International guests, accustomed to the finest accommodations globally, step into Lae International Hotel and are consistently amazed at the level of comfort and hospitality it offers. “I’ve had guests like Ray Warren, the famous rugby league commentator, come to Lae. They drive on terrible roads from the airport and wonder what they’ve gotten themselves into. But then they arrive at the hotel, step inside, and stand there amazed. They can’t believe that such a building exists in Lae.”

 

A Lasting Impact

 

At 81 years old, Sir Bob looks back on his journey with immense pride. His determination to build an establishment that represents excellence, fosters economic growth, and uplifts the people of Papua New Guinea has paid off. His leadership has not only shaped Lae International Hotel but has also inspired countless aspiring entrepreneurs across the nation.

 

His story is one of courage, resilience, and an unshakable belief in the potential of Papua New Guinea. It is proof that with passion and perseverance, even the most formidable challenges can be overcome.

 

Lae International Hotel is more than just a hotel—it is a legacy. It is a symbol of what can be achieved when visionaries refuse to compromise on their dreams. And as it continues to flourish, it remains a shining beacon of inspiration for future generations of Papua New Guinean entrepreneurs.

Forever Connected to Bulolo: Rommel Del Valle’s Journey of Identity and Resilience

Some places shape us in ways that time and distance can never erase. For Rommel Del Valle, that place is Bulolo—a picturesque town in Papua New Guinea’s Morobe Province that nurtured his childhood, instilled in him a deep sense of belonging, and continues to define his identity even as he builds a life in Australia.

Though born in the Philippines, Rommel grew up in Bulolo from the time he was 16 months old until he was 12. Today, as an Australian citizen living in Sydney with his wife and three children, he still carries the spirit of “Mangi Bulolo” wherever he goes—so much so that he has it painted on his shoes as a personal tribute to his roots.

But Rommel’s story is more than nostalgia; it’s a testament to resilience, cultural connection, and the enduring power of identity.

Growing Up in Bulolo

Rommel’s journey to Bulolo began in 1976 when his father, Romy Del Valle, an engineer with PNG Forest Products, brought his family to Papua New Guinea. From the very beginning, Bulolo became home. It was a place of warmth, friendship, and cultural exchange—where people treated each other like family and where respect was deeply ingrained in daily life.

“I made lots of friends there, especially with the locals,” Rommel recalls. “It was just a really nice place to live, where I knew everybody and developed strong values of respect and love for all.”

Rommel attended Bulolo International Preschool and later Bulolo International Primary School, where he was surrounded by classmates from all over the world—Japan, Finland, Sweden, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia, and Indonesia. This multicultural upbringing gave him a broader perspective and a deep appreciation for diversity.

“I learned to live, cooperate, and work with people from different backgrounds,” he says. “That experience has stayed with me throughout my life.”

Rommel Del Valle

Click to watch the full video interview with Rommel Del Valle

The Transition to Australia

At the age of 12, Rommel’s journey took another turn when his parents decided to send him to boarding school in Australia. For some, this might have been a difficult transition, but for Rommel, it was a natural step. Having grown up around Australian expatriates in Bulolo, he was more familiar with their culture and language than with his own Filipino heritage.

“I felt more at home going to Australia than to the Philippines,” he explains. “It was a natural transition for me.”

Despite the move, his attachment to Bulolo and Papua New Guinea remained strong. His childhood experiences—the friendships, the values, and the sense of community—continued to shape his identity.

“You can take me out of PNG, but you can’t take PNG out of me,” he says with a smile.

A Vision for Papua New Guinea’s Future

As Papua New Guinea approaches 50 years of independence in 2025, Rommel reflects on the country’s journey and his hopes for its future.

“I wish for every Papua New Guinean to be brave enough to stand up and be counted,” he says. “To be more assertive and inclusive in decision-making, especially our leaders—not just in politics but also in communities.”

One of his biggest hopes is to see greater economic empowerment and job creation for Papua New Guineans.

“If people can start generating income and creating businesses, PNG can move forward as a strong, independent nation in the Pacific and beyond,” he says.

Bulolo: A Connection That Never Fades

Rommel’s love for Papua New Guinea is something he carries with him every day—quite literally. During the COVID-19 pandemic, he custom-painted his shoes with the words “Mangi Bulolo PNG” and an illustration of the Raggiana bird-of-paradise. The artwork is more than just a design; it’s a deeply personal symbol of where he comes from and the values that continue to guide him.

Rommel Del Valle's 'Mangi Bulolo' shoes.

“In this day and age, sometimes we get lost in who we are,” he says. “I do this to remind myself—this is where I grew up, this is my family and friends. Maybe one day, I’ll go back to visit, because there’s no other place like it in the world.”

For Rommel Del Valle, Bulolo is more than just a childhood memory—it’s a foundation, a guiding light, and a constant reminder of who he is. Whether he’s at home in Sydney or walking along Bondi Beach, Bulolo is always with him.

Malum Nalu and Rommel Del Valle at Bondi Beach, Sydney, in November 2024.

Because home isn’t just a place—it’s a feeling that never fades.

Remembering the Forgotten: The Tragic Tale of Badihagwa Cemetery

In the heart of Hanuabada, Port Moresby, where the echoes of Papua New Guinea’s colonial past still linger, lies the old Badihagwa Cemetery. Once a solemn resting place for the expatriates and colonial administrators who shaped the early days of Port Moresby, today, it stands as a neglected relic of history. Forgotten by many, desecrated by time and encroachment, its once-pristine graves now lie buried under layers of soil, their inscriptions eroded by the years.

On Remembrance Day, July 23, 2024, I walked through this historic ground with Hanuabada villagers Joe Mase, Udu Mase, and Frank Aisi. As we approached the graves, the weight of history settled heavily upon us. Among the silent witnesses of time stood the grave of Sir Hubert Murray, the Lieutenant-Governor of Papua from 1908 to 1940. His name, still etched on a weathered headstone, serves as a testament to the colonial administration that once governed these lands.

For Frank Aisi, a senior public servant and passionate advocate for historical preservation, the neglect of Badihagwa Cemetery is a painful reminder of the country’s fading connection to its past. With Papua New Guinea on the brink of celebrating its 50th anniversary of independence in September 2025, he stresses the need to restore and preserve such historical sites for future generations.

“This cemetery is of great historical significance. It laid the foundation for socioeconomic development as early as colonial times. It needs to be conserved, cleaned, and respected,” Aisi remarked as we stood before the graves. “While colonial rule had its negative aspects, it also brought governance, law, and modernisation. This is our history, and we must remember it.”

Frank Aisi at the Badihagwa Cemetery

Click to watch a video interview with Frank Aisi

Established on October 10, 1912, Badihagwa was known as the European Cemetery of Port Moresby, serving as the final resting place for many expatriates who could not return home. For decades, it remained a sacred space, protected from encroachment. However, after independence in 1975, the once-strict boundaries blurred. Over time, as Port Moresby’s population grew and land became scarce, informal settlements spread into the area, and the cemetery was left to decay.

Joe Mase, another Hanuabada villager, recounted how the land was once off-limits to locals, reserved solely for colonial administrators and expatriates. “Back then, everything was separate—the European hospital, the European shops. This was their final resting place. Now, many of these graves are lost beneath houses and roads,” he lamented.

Despite its state of disrepair, the cemetery still holds remnants of the past. Faded headstones whisper the names of those who played a role in Papua New Guinea’s colonial history. Among them lies Henry Montgomery, whose name remains faintly visible, and George Sadler, a man whose memory is nearly erased by time. Some graves, like that of Sir Hubert Murray, still stand resilient against the elements, but others have been swallowed by neglect and development.

As we walked further into the cemetery, we found ourselves knee-deep in overgrowth, stepping over broken headstones and crumbling plaques. The sacredness of this place had been disregarded. Soil had risen over many of the graves, obscuring their inscriptions. Some graves had been desecrated, their plaques removed, their identities lost forever.

Frank Aisi, standing solemnly among the graves, called for urgent action. “This place should be restored, cleaned, and protected. We must acknowledge the past, not erase it. There should be efforts to clear the cemetery, restore inscriptions, and allow descendants to pay their respects. This is not just about the Europeans buried here—it is about the Hanuabada people, the history of Port Moresby, and the shared story of our nation.”

The neglect of Badihagwa Cemetery is a sobering reflection of how history can be forgotten if not carefully preserved. With Papua New Guinea reaching a milestone in its history this year, perhaps it is time to rekindle respect for the past and ensure that these silent voices are not lost forever.