In the heart of Hanuabada, Port Moresby, where the echoes of Papua New Guinea’s colonial past still linger, lies the old Badihagwa Cemetery. Once a solemn resting place for the expatriates and colonial administrators who shaped the early days of Port Moresby, today, it stands as a neglected relic of history. Forgotten by many, desecrated by time and encroachment, its once-pristine graves now lie buried under layers of soil, their inscriptions eroded by the years.
On Remembrance Day, July 23, 2024, I walked through this historic ground with Hanuabada villagers Joe Mase, Udu Mase, and Frank Aisi. As we approached the graves, the weight of history settled heavily upon us. Among the silent witnesses of time stood the grave of Sir Hubert Murray, the Lieutenant-Governor of Papua from 1908 to 1940. His name, still etched on a weathered headstone, serves as a testament to the colonial administration that once governed these lands.
For Frank Aisi, a senior public servant and passionate advocate for historical preservation, the neglect of Badihagwa Cemetery is a painful reminder of the country’s fading connection to its past. With Papua New Guinea on the brink of celebrating its 50th anniversary of independence in September 2025, he stresses the need to restore and preserve such historical sites for future generations.
“This cemetery is of great historical significance. It laid the foundation for socioeconomic development as early as colonial times. It needs to be conserved, cleaned, and respected,” Aisi remarked as we stood before the graves. “While colonial rule had its negative aspects, it also brought governance, law, and modernisation. This is our history, and we must remember it.”
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| Frank Aisi at the Badihagwa Cemetery Click to watch a video interview with Frank Aisi |
Established on October 10, 1912, Badihagwa was known as the European Cemetery of Port Moresby, serving as the final resting place for many expatriates who could not return home. For decades, it remained a sacred space, protected from encroachment. However, after independence in 1975, the once-strict boundaries blurred. Over time, as Port Moresby’s population grew and land became scarce, informal settlements spread into the area, and the cemetery was left to decay.
Joe Mase, another Hanuabada villager, recounted how the land was once off-limits to locals, reserved solely for colonial administrators and expatriates. “Back then, everything was separate—the European hospital, the European shops. This was their final resting place. Now, many of these graves are lost beneath houses and roads,” he lamented.
Despite its state of disrepair, the cemetery still holds remnants of the past. Faded headstones whisper the names of those who played a role in Papua New Guinea’s colonial history. Among them lies Henry Montgomery, whose name remains faintly visible, and George Sadler, a man whose memory is nearly erased by time. Some graves, like that of Sir Hubert Murray, still stand resilient against the elements, but others have been swallowed by neglect and development.
As we walked further into the cemetery, we found ourselves knee-deep in overgrowth, stepping over broken headstones and crumbling plaques. The sacredness of this place had been disregarded. Soil had risen over many of the graves, obscuring their inscriptions. Some graves had been desecrated, their plaques removed, their identities lost forever.
Frank Aisi, standing solemnly among the graves, called for urgent action. “This place should be restored, cleaned, and protected. We must acknowledge the past, not erase it. There should be efforts to clear the cemetery, restore inscriptions, and allow descendants to pay their respects. This is not just about the Europeans buried here—it is about the Hanuabada people, the history of Port Moresby, and the shared story of our nation.”
The neglect of Badihagwa Cemetery is a sobering reflection of how history can be forgotten if not carefully preserved. With Papua New Guinea reaching a milestone in its history this year, perhaps it is time to rekindle respect for the past and ensure that these silent voices are not lost forever.
