Captain Michael Butler gazes at the sky with a wistful expression. At 73, the retired ‘bush pilot’ still remembers the golden era of rural aviation in Papua New Guinea—a time when the hum of small aircraft was a lifeline to the country’s most isolated communities. But those days are gone. The airstrips, once bustling with activity, are now overgrown with weeds. The planes that once brought hope and connection to remote villages no longer land.
For 10 years, from 1981 to 1991, Captain Butler flew for Talair, an airline that symbolised the spirit of rural aviation in PNG. He and his fellow pilots traversed rugged mountains and dense jungles, braving unpredictable weather to deliver supplies, transport the sick, and keep communities connected to the outside world. Today, more than 600 rural airstrips have vanished from PNG’s landscape, and with them, a critical link to survival and prosperity.
“Imagine how parents must feel when their child falls sick in an isolated village,” Butler reflects. “They try walking for days to reach a hospital, only for some to die along the way. And then they have to carry the body back. In the 21st century, where else in the world would this be acceptable?”
His words cut deep, painting a grim picture of the reality many Papua New Guineans face. Without air services, people suffer in silence. Essential goods, medical aid, and educational supplies struggle to reach the most vulnerable. Coffee and fresh produce, once flown out to markets, now rot in abandoned storehouses.
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Captain Michael Butler |
A Legacy of Flight and Brotherhood
The golden era of PNG’s aviation was not just about flying planes—it was about building a nation. Pilots like Butler weren’t just aviators; they were lifelines. Their camaraderie went beyond the cockpit, forming bonds that transcended nationality. Australians, Papua New Guineans, and pilots from around the world risked their lives daily to ensure that the most remote regions of PNG stayed connected.
“But it wasn’t without cost,” Butler admits. “Many pilots lost their lives. We knew the risks, but we also knew the impact of our work. And that made it worth it.”
The pilots who once knew every valley, every peak, every unpredictable gust of wind have now retired. Their deep knowledge of PNG’s skies is slowly fading, and no new generation is stepping up to replace them. Butler laments how aviation today has become overly bureaucratic, focused on rigid safety regulations to the point that practicality is lost. “You can be too safe,” he argues. “If you overcompensate, you forget the real-world application, and ironically, that makes things more dangerous.”
A Nation Left Grounded
Since Talair’s closure in 1993, the aviation landscape has changed drastically. Airlines have gradually pulled out of bush services, citing economic unviability. What was once a thriving network of flights to every province has dwindled to rare chartered planes that only the wealthy can afford. The cost of a ticket from Port Moresby to a rural airstrip, once a mere 35 kina, has skyrocketed to nearly 500 kina—an impossible sum for villagers who rely on subsistence farming.
Without flights, rural economies have collapsed. Coffee, once a major export, has seen a drastic decline simply because there are no planes to transport it to markets. Entire communities, once vibrant trading hubs, have faded into obscurity. “We used to fly every weekend, shuttling coffee from remote villages,” Butler recalls. “Then the flights stopped, and the coffee just rotted where it was stored. The people had no choice but to stop farming.”
The impact extends beyond economics. Health services have deteriorated. Rural hospitals lack basic medicines because airstrips are no longer accessible. Emergency evacuations are rare, leaving patients to endure agonizing journeys on foot through treacherous terrain. Education has suffered as well, with teachers reluctant to take up posts in areas where there is no reliable transport.
A Call to the Skies
Despite the decline, Butler refuses to believe that rural aviation is beyond saving. He envisions a future where PNG establishes a Royal Flying Doctor Service, similar to Australia’s, ensuring that even the most remote communities have access to emergency medical aid. He advocates for government-subsidised air services, arguing that maintaining airstrips is far more economical than building and maintaining roads in PNG’s unforgiving terrain.
“If I were the government, I’d make health and education the top priority,” Butler says firmly. “Fund those properly first, and then we can talk about other developments.”
His passion is unwavering. He dreams of a day when young pilots take up the mantle, when rural airstrips once again see the dust rise as a plane lands with life-saving supplies. When no child dies because they couldn’t get to a hospital in time.
Beyond policy changes, Butler believes in rekindling a sense of national responsibility. He calls upon leaders, businesses, and communities to support initiatives that could restore air services to PNG’s most isolated areas. Whether through subsidies, partnerships with humanitarian organisations, or government-backed aviation programs, solutions must be found.
“We cannot allow an entire generation to be left behind,” Butler pleads. “If Papua New Guinea is to progress, we must first reconnect our people.”
The sky, once a beacon of hope for the remote villages of PNG, now stands silent. But perhaps, through the voices of those who refuse to forget, the lost wings of rural aviation may one day rise again.
For now, Captain Butler continues to share his story, hoping that someone, somewhere, will listen and act.
Perhaps the skies of Papua New Guinea will once again be filled with the hum of aircraft—not just as a memory of the past, but as a promise for the future.