I celebrate my 41st birthday by trekking the Kokoda Trail

I celebrated my 41st birthday the hard way by walking part of the Kokoda Trail from Owers Corner to Ua Ule Creek last Saturday, and back on Sunday, together with senior management and staff of Telikom.
It all started on Tuesday last week when my good mate Defol Jabbar, who runs up-and-coming trekking company Fuzzy Wuzzy Expeditions, asked me to accompany Telikom management and staff on the two-day trek.
Last Saturday was to be my birthday, and after weighing all the pros and cons, such as the fact that I would be away from my four young children, I took the gamble to walk Kokoda.
I walked the full Kokoda Trail from Kokoda to Owers Corner in 2003 and in 2004 walked from Kokoda to Isurava and back, so this would be my third trek, although I have written countless articles and taken hundreds of pictures about this WW11 icon.
Last week was also not the perfect one for me, with so much stress, that I decided that Kokoda would provide the much-needed therapy that I needed.
The late Sir Edmund Hillary, the first to climb Mount Everest in 1953, once remarked:" It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves."
Fears about the trek, hopes about reaching the end of the journey, at first seemed insurmountable; but they were met and conquered by the hardy Telikom staff including a female.
It brought out of them hidden physical and mental reserves that they never knew that they had!
Walking the Kokoda Trail made them envision the journey of life itself beginning with one small step, followed by another and another, until somehow, with time, you ultimately reach the pinnacle by taking it step after painful step.
The 15 staff - from marketing, regional operations and supply andlogistics divisions - walked from Owers Corner to Imita Ridge and downto Ua'Ule Creek last Saturday, overnighted, and then returned alongthe same route the next day.
In a nutshell, the Japanese captured Kokoda on July 28, 1942, and advanced over the Owen Stanley Ranges towards Port Moresby.
Australian soldiers delayed and finally halted the enemy at Ioribaiwa Ridge on September 26, 1942.
The 7th Australian Division began an offensive, which drew the enemy back through Kokoda to the coast, around Buna, where Australian and American troops combined to destroy the entire Japanese force.
For some of the trekkers such as marketing manager Jerry Damoi -overweight, unfit and out of shape - it was a real eye opener.
"Initially, it's about team building, wellbeing and fitness," he said.
"The idea is to mix management, team leaders and top management andsend them in a team to the famous Kokoda Trail to really get to knoweach other better.
"The terrain is quite challenging and brings out teamwork andtogetherness beyond the office, general wellbeing, as well as fitnessand a healthier lifestyle.
""What better place than the Kokoda Trail to have such a particulartherapy take place?"
Kokoda has made the Telikom employees realise many things.
They now better appreciate the rugged and heartbreaking terrain the Australians, the 'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels', and the Japanese encountered during those dark days of WW11.
The hardships the forgotten Orokaiva and Koiari people who live on the mountains, ridges, and gullies of the Owen Stanley Ranges endure daily brings tears to your eyes.
The smiling, happy faces of children as they called out a "hello" to visitors - amidst these abject hardships - brings so much joy to your heart.
You find peace and beauty in nature, with answers to troubling questions being found on the wind, in the trees, in the song of birds, in the pure voice of an ever - flowing mountain stream splashing over the rocks, and in the stillness of the forest.
Being along the Kokoda Trail, one becomes aware of the infinite circle of life: there is evidence of decay, destruction and death; there are also examples of rejuvenation, restoration and renewal.
But most of all, it has shown them (and me) that the human spirit can triumph over adversity.
The trek was facilitated by 100% nationally-owned company Fuzzy WuzzyExpeditions, which also organises similar treks for major corporateentities such as SP Brewery and Ela Motors.
Senior staff and management of Telikom, including CEO Peter Loko, willhave a series of Kokoda treks over the next few weeks.
Port Moresby journalist Stan 'The Man' Ivahupa from the NationalBroadcasting Commission and yours truly accompanied Telikom managementand staff on the first trek last weekend.
Mr Ivahupa featured it on his morning show on Monday morning.

Telikom management and staff tackle Kokoda Trail

Telikom trekkers walking down the hill from Owers Corner to Goldie River
Telikom management and staff at Owers Corner before the start of the trek

Senior management and stafff of Telikom had a taste of the ruggedterrain of the Kokoda Trail last weekend.

The 15 staff - from marketing, regional operations and supply andlogistics divisions - walked from Owers Corner to Imita Ridge and downto Ua'Ule Creek last Saturday, overnighted, and then returned alongthe same route the next day.

For some of the trekkers such as marketing manager Jerry Damoi -overweight, unfit and out of shape - it was a real eyeopeningexercise.

"Initially, it's about team building, wellbeing and fitness," he said.

"The idea is to mix management, team leaders and top management andsend them in a team to the famous Kokoda Trail to really get to knoweach other better.

"The terrain is quite challenging and brings out teamwork andtogetherness beyond the office, general wellbeing, as well as fitnessand a healthier lifestyle."

"What better place than the Kokoda Trail to have such a particulartherapy take place?"

The trek was facilitated by 100% nationally-owned company Fuzzy WuzzyExpeditions, which also organises similar treks for major corporateentities such as SP Brewery and Ela Motors.

Senior staff and management of Telikom, including CEO Peter Loko, willhave a series of Kokoda treks over the next few weeks.

Port Moresby journalists Stan 'The Man' Ivahupa from the NationalBroadcasting Commission and Malum Nalu accompanied Telikom managementand staff on the first trek last weekend.

Mr Ivahupa featured it on his morning show on Monday morning.

I just walked part of the Kokoda Trail

I celebrated my 41st birthday by walking part of the Kokoda Trail from Owers Corner to Ua Ule Creek on Saturday, and back on Sunday, together with staff of Telikom.

I will post full pictures and stories later.

Malum

Goodwill messages from September 16th, 1975

Messages from many lands expressed goodwill towards, and recognition of, the new nation of Papua New Guinea. Selections and excerpts are presented below:

CANADA

"On behalf of all Canadians, I am pleased to extend to you and to the people of Papua New Guinea our congratulations and very best wishes on attaining independence……”......................

Gules Leger
Governor-General of Canada

EUROPEAN ECONOMIC COMMUNITY

"........... We are pleased to see Papua New Guinea taking her place in the community of independent Nations and we send all our good wishes of prosperity and happiness to the people of Papua New Guinea."

JAPAN

"I have the honour to inform your excellency that the Government of Japan recognises Papua New Guinea as of 16th September, 1975. The Government and people of Japan offer their heartfelt felicitations to the Government and people of Papua New Guinea on its independence ……”

Takeo Miki
Prime Minister of Japan

REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

"We fully share the immense joy of the people of Papua New Guinea on that historic day, marking the birth of an independent and sovereign Nation and State of Papua New Guinea. Such joy is also shared by the 130 million Indonesian people. On this auspicious occasion therefore, I would like to convey the fraternal greetings of the people of Indonesia to the people of Papua New Guinea ……”

Soeharto,General
President

REPUBLIC OF NAURU

"……We peoples of the South Pacific especially look with pride and satisfaction on what has already been achieved in the establishment of your new nation. We are confident that, with God's help and with the leadership which your country has, that nation will grow in strength and unity amid peace……”

Hammer De Roburt
President

REPUBLIC OF PHILIPPINES

"……The people of the Philippines share with the people of Papua New Guinea their pride and joy on this historic occasion, which marks yet another milestone in the struggle for freedom of the peoples of the Western Pacific……”

F.R. Marcos
President of the Philippines


SOLOMON ISLANDS

“……We have admired the great scope of your celebrations and have been deeply impressed with the manner in which they conveyed the significance of the dawn of independence……”

Donald Luddington
Governor

Songs of unity

Come September 16, 2008, Papua New Guineans will join together to celebrate our 33rd anniversary of independence, linking hands to the refrain of “Oh Arise All You Sons”.
As we all join hands, spare a thought for other unity songs of that eventful period of PNG’s history, which did so much to bring together the many different tribes of this country.
“Oh Arise All You Sons” – the National Anthem – was composed by Tom Shacklady, the bandmaster of the Royal PNG Constabulary Band, and won a competition for a new anthem in the period just before independence.
It is interesting to note that when the competition was on, the song “Papua New Guinea” – composed by the remarkable Geoffrey Baskett – was proposed by many people.

Papua New Guinea

Our land is the island of high mountains,
Of sunlit palms and coral sea,
Where our people sing while the drums are beating,
For our land is strong and free.
Papua……….New Guinea……….

Papua New Guinea our Motherland
Every tribe and race, let us work together,
United we shall stand

There’s a bright new day dawning for our land
As every tribe and race unite
Sons and daughters arise, we’ll advance together
With God to guide us in the right.
Papua……….New Guinea……….

Papua New Guinea our Motherland
Every tribe and race, let us work together
United we shall stand.

Baskett, the founder of Lae-based Kristen Redio, also wrote three other songs which are printed is a hymn book that is in wide use in PNG.
Two of these songs – “Islands and Mountains” and “We Are Free” – reflect his great love of a country he spent nearly 60 years in and for which he was awarded the MBE in 1990.
Baskett was born at Kohat in the high Himalayan mountains of India and lived a fascinating life, one which every schoolboy dreams of.
As a teenager, he left Sydney for a six-week visit to Kwato, an island off the southeast coast of Papua.
That visit turned into nearly 60 years of service to the nation of PNG.
Baskett first came to PNG in 1933 and worked day and night shifts on tractors and a gold dredge on the Bulolo gold fields, served on the islands and mainland with Australia New Guinea Administrative Unit (ANGAU) during World War 11 when he rose through the ranks from private to captain.
He also worked in various capacities on the staff of the well-known Kwato Mission and founded a complex for the production of Christian radio programs for 19 radio stations before his “retirement” to Australia.
Baskett tells of the songs he wrote, and his love for PNG, in his autobiography “Islands and Mountains”.
“Four songs I have written are now printed in a hymn book that is in wide use in Papua New Guinea, and I have often thought that these songs have contributed more to this nation than any book I could have written,” he writes in the book.
“After all, a book once it has been read is usually put away on a shelf for a very long time before it is read again, whereas a song, usually a hymn, is used time and time again, often long after the death of the composer.
“One of the songs in the hymn book is called ‘Islands and Mountains’…the first verse reads:
Islands and mountains, sunshine and breeze,
Flowers and moonlight, swaying palm trees,
Jungles and rivers, white coral sand.
This is my country, this is my land.

“I wrote that for a children’s concert at Kwato, making up a tune with a suitable waltx-like rhythm.
“As it was often sung to visiting tourists, it became quite popular, especially among the Scouts and Guides.
“When some Guides sang it at a gathering in Port Moresby, it was learned by a group of Australian Guides who then took it back with them.
“Soon afterwards, I was asked if it could be printed in their Australian Guides’ songbook and I of course gave them permission.
“It is now known through international Guides’ circles as the ‘Song of Kwato’.”
Such was the impact of the song that a tobacco firm in Australia actually plagiarised its words and used them to promote its cigarette sales in Fiji.
Baskett reveals: “There is an interesting story about this song.
“A friend of mine was working for a firm in Australia which makes ‘floppy’ discs for gramophones.
“These were made by the thousands and given away as advertisements by various firms.
“One day, I received a phone call from him asking me if I knew that a tobacco firm in Australia was using my song commercially to boost their sales in Fiji.
“It appeared that he was working on the production of several thousands of discs which would be enclosed in a Fijian newspaper.
“The firm had used my tune but altered the words of some of the verses to fit the Fijian scene and my friend had already printed hundreds of the discs before he thought of phoning me.
“The words were also printed on an enclosed brochure extolling the firm’s cigarettes and this was put in every newspaper to make sure people got the message.
“I wasn’t particularly happy with the idea of my song being used to promote tobacco sales – being a non smoker – but as two of the lines said ‘we’ll build Fiji now as God has planned, make this his country, make this his land’, I was very much in favor of that idea spreading through their nation.
“So on that basis, I wrote to the manager of the firm and told him that they should have asked for my permission before printing my song and going ahead with their advertising venture.
“However, as they had already spent a great deal of money on the advertisement, it would be in order for them to proceed.
“The manger answered very apologetically and sent me a cheque for A$100 so that settled that!
“But I always feel that it was more than just conincidence that of the millions of men in Australia, the one who had been given the job of printing the floppy discs should have been a personal friend of mine who knew the tune I had composed.”
“Papua New Guinea” was composed when Baskett was working with the Department of Information.
He recalls that the director called him up one day and said that the team going to the South Pacific Games was looking for an anthem to sing, and as at that time PNG did not have a national anthem, could he do something about it for them?
“I had always enjoyed a tune which is very widely known around Port Moresby ‘Papua e, oi natumu ahaodia…’ and I thought of using this and putting new words in English to make it suitable for the occasion,” Baskett writes in Islands and Mountains.
“As the song was always sung in Motu, it was not widely known throughout the country and I thought it would be a good chance to teach others this most-attractive melody.
“Later, it was written out for the Police Band, and in time the tune was known nationwide.
“When there was a competition for a new National Anthem, this song was proposed by many people, but one that was written by the bandmaster at that time ‘Arise All You Sons’ was chose and is now the PNG National Anthem.
“Papua New Guinea” has become a popular national song and is often heard on the radio.
“The same song was sung by a group of students during a visit by Sir Paul Hasluck, who later became Governor-General of Australia,” Baskett recalls.
“After listening to the song, which speaks to us about uniting to build our nation, Sir Paul said, ‘well there is no need to make my speech now, you have sung all that I planned to say out!’”
Also at the time of independence, Baskett entered a song, which won first prize in the solo section, although he did not sing the solo.
Entitled “We Are Free”, it is now played on the radio each year during Independence Day broadcasts.
“So, as I said, I think there is more value in composing a song that is known to many thousands of people than in writing a book that is read by relatively few,” Baskett says.

Islands and Mountains

Islands and mountains, and sunshine and breeze,
Flowers and moonlight, swaying palm trees,
Jungles and rivers, white coral sand,
This is my country, this is my land.

Dark were the days when men lived in fear,
Fear of the arrow, stone club and spear,
Fighting and hatred filled every land,
That was my country, that was my land

Then came the change that brought peaceful days,
News of our Saviour, learning his ways,
Darkness is fading out of our land,
We know the peace of His guiding hand.

What of the future? Soon we shall be,
Teachers and leaders of our country,
We’ll build our nation as God had planned,
Make this His country, make this His land.

Then shall our country be free and strong,
Homes will be filled with laughter and song,
Peace in our hearts and work for our hands,
Unite our nation with other lands,
Unite our nation with other lands.

We Are Free

Like the birds as they fly over high mountains,
Like the fish as they swim in the sea,
Like the clouds as they float in the clear blue sky,
We are free! We are free! We are free!

Like the songs of a bird at the break of day,
Like the wind in the leaves of a tree,
Like the waves as they break on a coral shore,
We are free! We are free! We are free!

Independence has come, now we all must work
To unite Papua New Guinea,
We shall build our new nation in peace and love,
We are free! We are free! We are free!
We are free! We are free! We are free!

September 16th 1975

It was a truly moving ceremony and indeed a grand finale to Australian rule in Papua New Guinea.
Tears fell freely for many, a moment they shall never forget, as the Australian flag came down for the last time.
Just after 5pm on Monday, September 15, 1975, George Ibor, Warrant Officer, 2nd Class, of the 1st Pacific Islands Regiment, stepped into the centre of the Hubert Murray Stadium in Port Moresby.
A military band, accompanied by the percussion of a thousand clicking camera shutters, played “Sunset” as Warrant Officer Ibor lowered the Australian flag, folded it and handed it to Sir John Guise, the Governor-General of Papua New Guinea.
Australian colonial rule in Papua New Guinea had ended.
Sir John stressed that the flag was being lowered and not torn down, and that the years of transition from Australian rule to Independence had been happy and peaceful.
Sir John Kerr, the Australian Governor-General, taking the liberties with history that such occasions permit, asserted that Papua New Guinea and Australia had “by and large” worked in harmony, and had thus avoided the policies and relationships which had proved so tragic elsewhere.
At midnight on Tuesday, September 16, 1975, Governor-General Sir John Guise declared: “Distinguished guests, visitors from overseas, people of Papua New Guinea.
“Papua New Guinea is now independent. The constitution of the independent state of Papua New Guinea, under which all power rests with the people, is now in effect.
“We have at this point in time broken with our colonial past and we now stand as an independent nation in our own right.
“Let us unite, with the almighty God’s guidance and help, in working together for a future as a strong and free country.”
At one minute past midnight, fireworks resembling the twin plums of a Bird of Paradise heralded the start of a new day, a new era and a new Nation State.
Simultaneously, a 101-gun salute from HMAS Stalwart of the Royal Australian Navy occurred accompanied by HMNZS Tarenaki.
On the morning of the first day of Independence for Papua New Guinea, flag raising ceremonies took place throughout the nation.
The ceremony in Port Moresby was conducted at Independence Hill overlooking the main city centre.
International guests in national dress and western dress assembled for the occasion.
Former Administrators D.O. Hay and J.K. Murray, and former Minister for External Territories C.E. Barnes were among the spectators.
Prince Charles unveiled a plaque to mark the site of the new National Parliament building.

The Governors-General of Papua New Guinea and of Australia followed by the Commander of the Defence Force Ted Diro and Police Commissioner Pious Kerepia inspected the plaque, which was followed by the planting of trees.
The Papua New Guinea flag was presented by the Governor-General to the Commander of the Defence Force and the Police Commissioner.
It was placed over three drums from the 1st Battalion Pacific Islands Regiment Band and blessed.
The Flag Party and guards slowly marched up Independence Hill and hoisted the new nation’s flag above the plaque commemorating the ceremony.
Prince Charles later officially opened the First National Parliament of Papua New Guinea.
He read a goodwill message from the Queen, and officially opened the first National Parliament.
He looked to a future of promise, opportunity and individual freedom, and reminded the elected representatives of the great burden of responsibility which they had shouldered.
The action moved back to the Hubert Murray Stadium where a crowd of 14,000 witnessed a long and colourful ceremony during which the country’s political and legal leaders pledged their allegiance and loyalty to the Independent State of Papua New Guinea,
Governor-General Sir John Guise was sworn in by the Chief Justice of Papua New Guinea, Sir Sydney Frost.
Deputy Prime Minister Sir Albert Maori Kiki was sworn in by the Governor-General, and the Prime Minister Michael Somare signed a Declaration of Allegiance.
Members of Parliament were sworn in by the Governor-General.
Cultural aides from Sogeri Senior High School represented Papua New Guinea in a ceremonial gift exchange with representatives of many nations, international organizations and the United Nations.
Messages from many lands expressed goodwill towards, and recognition of, the new nation of Papua New Guinea.
Prime Minister Michael Somare held a press conference where he preached the virtues and necessity of “pulling up our socks” to a largely sockless nation.
He also stressed a commitment to self-reliance while Australian Prime Minister Gough Whitlam gave a “categorical and unequivocal” assurance that Papua New Guinea would have first call on Australia’s aid program.
Celebrations continued throughout the land.
On Wednesday, September 17, the Royal Australian Air Force and Air Niugini carried the Royal Party on its tour of five provinces throughout the mainland: East Sepik, Eastern Highlands, Chimbu, Western Highlands and Western.
People returned to their villages, put away their spears, kundus (hand drums) and bilas (finery) and recommenced the familiar daily round.
What would Independence bring to them?
Only time – now 33 years – would tell.

Rural Papua New Guinea remains in the dark after 33 years of independence

It is one of the greatest ironies that Papua New Guinea, with all its fast-flowing rivers and streams, does not have rural electricity.
Rural electricity remains a far-off dream after 33 years of independence.
In September 1976, a year after independence, Public Utilities Minister Donatus Mola announced ambitious plans for rural electrification.
To this day, those dreams have not been fulfilled and rural electrification remains a political football.
In hindsight, rural electrification could have assisted in breaking down the rural-urban drift and the ensuing massive social problems experienced over the last 30 years.
It could have meant more opportunities and new fulfillment for the people when integrated with all aspects of development: agricultural, village, industrial, social and economic.
“The present plan is that where it is shown to be feasible, micro-hydro power will be developed in rural areas and from the station, distribution lines will be spread out to those places demanding the service,” Mr Mola said in 1976.
“In time, the distribution line will link together all the various micro-hydro stations, so that the second step can take place where one major hydro-electric power station can link up all the distribution lines and the minor power plants can be moved to a new area where the same plan commences.
“Thus, the spread of development depends on the needs of the consumer and his demand for the power produced.
“The distribution of this power must rest in the hands of the provincial authorities so that the people not only receive but actually own the power that is generated within their province.
“Any profits will be ploughed back into improving the living standards of the people of the province.
“The way that I anticipate that this will be done is that the National Government will arrange loan funds from various sources for the capital cost of the micro-hydro electric power stations or transmission from existing power sources.
“The province will utilise the profits from the sale of the power from existing power sources to distribute power to the villages, so spreading power to the villages according to the wishes and needs of their own people.
“The province will also be required to pay the loan for capital equipment.
“In this way, the province can feel that its people are the real and true owners of the power supply and that they determine the use to which the power is put.”
Mr Mola stressed: “It is not a dream, but a target for achievement.
“We can do it, we must do it if we are to function as a Government of the people, for the people, and it is my declared intention that we should do it, starting now we should light into the lives of our people, joy to their hearts and prosperity to their lives by bringing power to the villages.”
Rural PNG remains in the dark after 33 years of independence.