Monday, April 27, 2009

Dust over Rabaul

Dust over Rabaul
Children on the eerie, moonscape-like landscape near Tavuvur Volcano, Rabaul

Dust over Rabaul


Rabaul Market
Rabaul volcano
Tavurvur sends out clouds of ash over Rabaul

Tavurvur sends out dust over Rabaul from seen from the volcano observatory
…but there is a silver lining to the dark cloud

Going back to the dusty volcanic town of Rabaul after many years can be a very emotional experience.
And that’s exactly what I found out when my guide, University of Vudal lecturer Gitala Pranis and his lovely wife Jacinta, took me to Rabaul as a last stop after an extensive tour of the Gazelle Peninsula.
Last time I was in Rabaul was way back in 1993, when I traveled there from Lae one weekend with my uncle, Elijah Kissing, to support our beloved Lae Bombers in their rugby league clash against the Rabaul Guria.
Our team lost; however, we had a great time that weekend in Rabaul and the many nightclubs in town.
A year later, in September 1994, our hearts broke as Rabaul was destroyed by falling ash of that fateful volcanic eruption.
Before that, in the early 1970’s, when my late father Mathias Nalu was school inspector on Bouganville, we family often stopped in Rabaul as the DC3 we were traveling in refueled on the long run between Lae and Buka.
Those were indeed the halcyon days when Rabaul was widely regarded as the “pearl of the Pacific”.
Those memories of another day touched a nostalgic chord in my heart as I saw the sad remains of Rabaul, which were so poignantly captured in song by one of its favorite sons, the late John Wong, who died so tragically this year of a heart attack.
He was a huge figure on the PNG music scene in the 80’s and 90’s, playing with such legendary PNG bands as Barike and the Unbelievers.
His songs Dust over Rabaul and Rabaul Town were huge hits and meant a lot to the people of Rabaul after the destruction caused by the volcano in 1994.
Tavurvur Volcano in Rabaul continues to send out clouds of ash and steam, as I found out.
It was making belching noises like a mammoth jet engine and continuing to send out ash over Rabaul.
The area near the volcano is eerie and like a moonscape, however, people stubbornly
persist and continue to live in Rabaul.
The town was the provincial capital and most important settlement in the province until it was destroyed in 1994.
After the eruption the capital was moved to Kokopo, about 20km away.
Rabaul is continually threatened by volcanic activity due to being built on the edge of Rabaul caldera, a flooded caldera of a large volcano.
There are eight active vents in Rabaul Caldera: Tovanumbatir, Kabiu, Rabalanakaia, Turanguna, Tavurvur, Sulphur Creek, Vulcan, and Vulcan Island.
A large eruption occurred at Rabaul volcano on Saturday October 7, 2006, with ash to 60,000 feet.
The eruption shattered windows in the town, and lava flows reached the sea
Many long time residents of Rabaul whom I spoke to remarked that 2008 has seen one of the worst ash fallouts from Tavurvur, with one of the largest and most consistent amounts of ash.
On November 20 in 2008, Tavuvur released a spectacular plume of ash and steam, and the Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) on NASA’s Aqua satellite took a picture the same day and posted it on its website http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/.
In this image, a dingy gray plume blows westward over the Bismarck Sea from the volcano’s summit.
The plume differs from the nearby clouds in both its darker color and more diffuse shape.
At the Rabaul Hotel, staff are on the roofs, in the garden and its surrounds, every day, with shovels and wheel barrows digging out the ash that has accumulated over night.
A recent newspaper report, saying that the ash was life threatening, led to mass hysteria and panic by the workers of Rabaul and the closure of some much-needed utilities like the hospital, technical, school and power.
That aside, Rabaul is still a beautiful place with a lot of history, remaining the third largest port of Papua New Guinea, importing and exporting and the feeding straw to Kokopo Town and indeed, the whole Islands Region.
The history of Rabaul is one of wreckage and regrowth.
Modern historians will find a treasure trove of World War 2 relics, tunnels and caverns to explore within driving distance of Rabaul.
Close to the now-thriving centre of Kokopo, are the remnants of Gunantambu mansion, built in the 1880’s by the legendary Queen Emma.
After the eruption of Tavurvur and Vulcan in September 1994, most Rabaul services were relocated in Kokopo, which is strung along the edge of Blanche Bay.
The town has grown rapidly and the busy market, selling fresh produce, local cigars and betel nut, is located on the main road from Tokua Airport.
The waterfront is the place to find boats for travel to the outer islands or for a spot of fishing.
The drive from the airport, now located at Tokua about an hour from Rabaul, is along a narrow road winding its way around the glittering waters of the Gazelle Peninsula.
Through the coconut trees villages of thatched huts surrounded by colourful flowerbeds and tropical fruit trees look out over calm waters.
East New Britain has a fascinating World War 11 history and visitors can explore Japanese caved systems, barged tunnels, aircraft wrecks and submarines.
The people of East New Britain have been seen as culturely diversified with rich and unique traditions.
The tubuan signifies spiritual dancers and traditional ceremonies that demonstrate a history well kept and used in today’s society.
The Tolai people of the Gazelle Peninsulla have continued to use the traditional shell money called tabu.
They use the tabu as a contribution to the Tolai male secret society of tubuan and dukduk, for distribution to people at death ceremonies, as payment of a bride price, for settling disputes, to purchase land or even garden food from local markets.
The tropical nature of the province, with its evergreen rainforest vegetation and rugged mountain ranges, the imposing volcanoes which surrounds the town of Rabaul and the beautiful Simpson harbour have made East New Britain an attractive and adventurous place to visit.
The marine resources are diverse and the tropical environment provides opportunities for bush trekking, mountain trekking, mountain climbing and cave exploration.
Yes, indeed, there is a silver lining to the dark cloud looming over Rabaul.

Unforgettable Kavieng, New Ireland province

Buying fresh fish at Kavieng Market
Children on the beachfront at Kavieng looking out to Nusa Island
Crowd at Kavieng Market
Fresh fish galore at Kavieng Market


Fresh fish on sale at Kavieng Market
Fresh fruit and vegetables at Kavieng Market
Fresh vegetables at Kavieng Market
Kavieng Market on a Saturday morning

Kavieng Market
Nusa Parade, Kavieng
Welcome to Kavieng signboard
Welcome to New Ireland signboard
Wonderful Kavieng, New Ireland province, is the ideal place to visit as I found out during a recent visit.
I especially loved the scenic and unspoiled beachfront, market and the long and winding Boluminski Highway.
The market, especially, is one place where you can find the tastiest sea food and freshest vegetables.
The highway is named after German administrator, Franz Boluminski, who landed at Kavieng on June 30, 1900, with his wife Frida.
He supervised the task of building a road, and in less than four years, 100km was built using karanas (dead coral) that is in plentiful supply.
Boluminiski gained widespread respect for establishing peace on New Ireland; however, it is for the highway that his name lives on.
His tough but fair dealings with natives and whites alike in New Ireland were frequently referred to by visiting Germans as “the South Sea Pearl of German colonial possessions”.
Boluminski had built a fine residence on a ridge with a grand staircase descending to the harbour with extensive gardens.
A post office was established in 1904 and overseas vessels were visiting Kavieng by 1912.
He died on April 28, 1913, and is buried at Bagail cemetery in Kavieng.
At the time of Boluminski’s death, a fine road capable of being used by the new motor vehicles just arriving stretched 165km from Kavieng carrying produce to port and facilitating the administration by strategically-located government rest houses.
It was the longest and best road in the Pacific until the 1950’s.
My cousin Gebing Jethro, who manages a hardware store on the island, took me for a drive along the Boluminski and proudly asserted: “We don’t have potholes like you guys in Lae and Port Moresby!”
Of course, you can’t say anything about Kavieng and New Ireland province without mentioning the Chinese, who were brought to Kokopo and then Kavieng in the late 1800’s, inter-married with the local women, and their legacy lives on to this day.
Kavieng is situated at the northern tip of New Ireland.
It has often been described as the typical “Somerset Maugham South Sea island port”.
It has a large, beautiful harbour and is a popular destination for sports fishing enthusiasts and cruising yachts.
Along the edge of the harbour is Nusa Parade, a gently curving road, shaded by huge trees, which passes many points of historical interest, the main market, the port, fisheries and the hospital.
Kavieng is a sleepy little town with a golf course, a range of restaurants, bars and facilities, including banks, supply stores, bakeries and supermarkets.
Places to stay include, hotel, guest house and resort style accommodation, while easy going traditional style bungalows are situated among the islands just offshore.
Visitors should not expect to come to Kavieng to experience an abundance of cafés or restaurants, shopping strips and nightclubs, as they will be very disappointed.
The main Kavieng Market is situated on the foreshore and is a central hub of activity most days of the week, except Sundays.
There is a fantastic variety of locally grown fruits and vegetables, fresh and smoked fish, live mud crabs, baskets of sunga and kina shells, and of course plenty of buai.
Also found in large quantities are huge trays of tapioca slice made with coconut milk, sago slice, donuts, rice balls and other local delicacies.
Although generally a produce market, you will also find woven baskets, locally printed laplaps, and handmade bilums available for sale.
In addition to the Kavieng Market, there are a variety of kai bars in Kavieng where you can pick up a cheap local-style feed.
The Kavieng Hotel has a bar, complete with pool table and satellite TV, and a garden setting restaurant which is open every day of the week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Kavieng Hotel, however, is famous for its Friday Night Seafood Buffet with what seems like an unlimited amount of mud crabs and crayfish, as well as plenty of fish and other seafood, salads and vegetable dishes.
The Kavieng Club has a large bar and a billiard room, and is a relaxing place for a drink after a game of golf on their nine-hole golf course or a quick snack for lunch or dinner.
The Malagan Beach Resort is perfectly situated on the beachfront, and its outside pool decking area is an excellent place to watch the sun set whilst enjoying a drink from their bar.
Its restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and extends outside to a shaded patio area on the beach.
Sunday night is BBQ Night at the Malagan.
Nusa Island Retreat, only a short two-minute boat ride across the harbour, has an excellent bar and restaurant set right on the beach complete with sand floor and tables made from coconut trees.
The bar has a great selection of local and imported spirits, an excellent wine list, and an extensive cocktail list.
Nusa’s restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch with a good selection to choose from off their menu, with buffet dinners available every night of the week, specialising in the areas fresh seafood and vegetables.
Sea breezes keep Kavieng cool and it’s a pretty and peaceful place to wander around, with very friendly and welcoming people.
More and more tourists are visiting this part of paradise and you can also find out why with a visit there.
I spent a couple of days in Kavieng and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of my stay.
I'm planning to go back very shortly, and who knows, might even buy a piece of land in this part of Paradise.

SINGLE MUM

A beautiful poem written by my good friend, Michelle Evoa, a single mum, as Mother’s Day nears…

 

By MICHELLE EVOA

 

Single mum

Just Another woman;

but is a mum and dad.

Parting knowledge and skill

To children, who,

See the world

A better, lovelier place

Because; mummy is my mum,

And mummy is also my daddy.

 

Single mum,

Struggles and is bolder

For mine close to heart

I provide and protect.

Give my all selflessly

A purpose to my everyday hard toil

For the reward, in the radiant smile

And the embrace of my child

I cannot comprehend.

 

There is no shame in the role

Forever engraved in my memory,

One I do not have to share.

The joy to watch my child blossom

Moulded by my firmness.

 

I watch my baby sleep

Listen to a beautiful heart beat

The warmth of this little body

This is the reason why I toil,

I am happy, a Single mum.

 

Single mum

The Good Lord, knows my path

And is my refuge.

For every mile,

I walked with my Hand in his.           

Origin of the name...

By PAUL OATES in Queensland, Australia

 

Arthur Williams, a former kiap now living in Wales reckons this may have been where the magazine "The Bulletin" got its name from.

Somare in Australia for high level talks

By KEITH JACKSON of PNG Attitude

 

Papua New Guinea Sir Michael Somare arrived in Australia yesterday for talks with his Australian counterpart Kevin Rudd and a tour of bushfire and flood affected areas.

He is accompanied by Foreign Affairs Minister Sam Abal, National Planning Minister Paul Tiensten, Vice Minister for Mining Ano Pala and leading Opposition identity, Byron Chan MP, son of New Ireland Governor Sir Julius Chan.

Sir Michael will meet Mr Rudd tomorrow and also call on Governor-General Quentin Bryce. The discussions will also involve Trade Minister Simon Crean, Immigration Minister Chris Evans and Parliamentary Secretary for Pacific Affairs Duncan Kerr.

In the evening there will be a reception at the PNG High Commission which Ingrid and I will be attending and I’ll be reporting on for PNG Attitude.

On Wednesday, Sir Michael will meet Victorian Premier John Brumby before visiting bushfire-affected areas. On Thursday he meets Opposition leader Malcolm Turnbull and address the PNG-Australia Business Council in Brisbane.

On Friday, he will get a briefing on the flood recovery efforts in the Ingham region before returning to Port Moresby on Sunday.

 

Today at the Farm

Autumn arrives
Butcherbird prey
Crested Pidgeon
Echidna's feast
Grevillia
Guava
Nagura Burrs
Show group 1
Sunset in our valley
Young heifer
Young Magpie
Young Magpie
From PAUL OATES in Queensland, Australia
Autumn has finally arrived and with it, the leaves are turning colour.
A young Magpie is 'carolling' outside and in the distance, a Pied Butcherbirdgives it melodic call. Aside from the 'hook' on the tip of a Butcherbird'sbeak, this bird gets its name from its habit of 'hanging' its prey up onanything it can a 'hook it' on to.
In this case, some barbed wire for somedung beetles that I didn't quite get in focus.
As I walked around our farm today, I saw where an echidna had had a feast ona white ant's nest. The Guava tree has some ripe fruit on it and the NarrowLeafed Ironbarks are flowering.
I found a few Nagura Burrs around the top dam.
A small herd of our cattle are coming alongwell and we hope they will do well in the local Show.
A Grevillia isflowering near the cattle pens as I fed the young cattle who have just beenbranded. The local birds are coming down to get their share of any spilledgrain as the sun sets on our valley.

Croc with dog

By PAUL OATES in Queensland, Australia

A mate sent me this photo of a North Queensland crocodile (saltie) with a local dog in its mouth. The rivers and esturies up there are not a great place to swim these these days.