Sunday, November 08, 2009

War museum becomes popular

An impromptu war museum at the site of what used to be Schwimmer Drome at Laloki, on the banks of the great river of the same name, is becoming a must-visit for tourists to Port Moresby.
The museum is run by Thomas Richard Auhava, from Iokea in the Gulf province, without any assistance from organisations such as the National Museum and Art Gallery as well as the Tourism Promotion Authority.
Ironically, last month, when visiting tourist cruise ship Rhapsody of the Sea visited Port Moresby, tourists who were turned away from the NMAG ended up visiting Mr Auhava’s ad hoc museum (pictures above, by Eco Tourism Melanesia).
Mr Auhava has, over the years, been collecting numerous war relics in and around the site of the old Schwimmer Drome in a labour-of-love.
He is fighting a lonely battle against scrap metal hunters and dealers, who without any scruples do anything to get an extra buck.
He has brought a proposal to the NMAG in Waigani, Port Moresby, for funding to set up a proper museum, as well as the TPA, but to no avail,
Mr Auhava has been living at Laloki for the last 20 years and knows every nook and cranny in the area.
“Over the years,” says the former PNG Defence Force soldier, “I’ve been collecting these war relics and I’ve been featured in newspapers.
“Because of this media publicity, tourists started visiting, and I’ve decided to start a proper museum.”
The war relics include human bones, helmets, dog tags, tools, hand grenades (defused), bombshells, bullets, coins, jerry cans, 1940’s Coca-Cola bottles and assorted paraphernalia.
One of the prized possessions of the collection is the remains of the plane of Australian air ace, John Jackson, after whom Port Moresby’s famous Jackson’s International Airport is named.
Jackson crashed on the hills overlooking Laloki after a heroic dogfight against Japanese fighters.
“History is very important,” Mr Auhava extols.
“This generation, unfortunately, doesn’t seem to know anything about the war.
“Historical sites like Schwimmers should be preserved for educational purposes, tourism, etc.
“These relics should be preserved and protected.
“Scrap metal vendors are getting their hands on these war relics.
“If we lose these war relics, we lose history.
“People are just taking them out and selling them to scrap metal dealers.
“I decided to bring them all to one place and take care of them.
“After that, I began to find out about the place itself, its history.
“I borrowed some WW11 books from a historian and did research.
“I realised that it (Schwimmers) was a WW11 US airbase.”

Friday, November 06, 2009

The amazing cucumber

Cucumbers to the rescue!!!

This information was in The New York Times several weeks ago as part of their "Spotlight on the Home" series that highlighted creative and fanciful ways to solve common problems.

1. Cucumbers contain most of the vitamins you need every day, just one cucumber contains Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Folic Acid, Vitamin C, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium and Zinc.

2. Feeling tired in the afternoon, put down the caffeinate soda and pick up a cucumber. Cucumbers are a good source of B Vitamins and Carbohydrates that can provide that quick pick-me-up that can last for hours./

3. Tired of your bathroom mirror fogging up after a shower? Try rubbing a cucumber slice along the mirror, it will eliminate the fog and provide a soothing, spa-like fragrance.

4. Are grubs and slugs ruining your planting beds? Place a few slices in a small pie tin and your garden will be free of pests all season long. The chemicals in the cucumber react with the aluminum to give off a scent undetectable to humans but drive garden pests crazy and make them flee the area.

5. Looking for a fast and easy way to remove cellulite before going out or to the pool? Try rubbing a slice or two of cucumbers along your problem area for a few minutes, the phytochemicals in the cucumber cause the collagen in your skin to tighten, firming up the outer layer and reducing the visibility of cellulite. Works great on wrinkles too!!!

6. Want to avoid a hangover or terrible headache? Eat a few cucumber slices before going to bed and wake up refreshed and headache free. Cucumbers contain enough sugar, B vitamins and electrolytes to replenish essential nutrients the body lost, keeping everything in equilibrium, avoiding both a hangover and headache!!

7. Looking to fight off that afternoon or evening snacking binge? Cucumbers have been used for centuries and often used by European trappers, traders and explores for quick meals to thwart off starvation.

8. Have an important meeting or job interview and you realize that you don't have enough time to polish your shoes? Rub a freshly cut cucumber over the shoe, its chemicals will provide a quick and durable shine that not only looks great but also repels water.

9. Out of WD 40 and need to fix a squeaky hinge? Take a cucumber slice and rub it along the problematic hinge, and voila, the squeak is gone!

10. Stressed out and don't have time for massage, facial or visit to the spa? Cut up an entire cucumber and place it in a boiling pot of water, the chemicals and nutrients from the cucumber with react with the boiling water and be released in the steam, creating a soothing, relaxing aroma that has been shown the reduce stress in new mothers and college students during final exams.

11. Just finish a business lunch and realize you don't have gum or mints? Take a slice of cucumber and press it to the roof of your mouth with your tongue for 30 seconds to eliminate bad breath, the phytochemcials will kill the bacteria in your mouth responsible for causing bad breath.

12. Looking for a 'green' way to clean your faucets, sinks or stainless steel? Take a slice of cucumber and rub it on the surface you want to clean, not only will it remove years of tarnish and bring back the shine, but is won't leave streaks and won't harm you fingers or fingernails while you clean.

13. Using a pen and made a mistake? Take the outside of the cucumber and slowly use it to erase the pen writing, also works great on crayons and markers that the kids have used to decorate the walls!! Pass this along to everybody you know who is looking for better and safer ways to solve life's everyday problems...

Anatomy of politics of Sepik

By James Wanjik, Fellow Sepik of Wosera, PNG

SEPIK covers East and West in the North West of Papua New Guinea (PNG). Known business centres are Wewak, Vanimo, Maprik, Aitape, Angoram, Ambunti, Lumi and Nuku. There are number of districts without physical or functional business centres.

PNG is now 34 years old as a nation. Many areas are progressing well even at a small scale. The Sepik is still powerless and helpless.

Toll on people is attributed to stuff up of our leaders. Leaders are working for their popularity more than they are for people and their needs.

No Sepik leader has ever got leaders of the Sepik Provinces to work together. Somare and Pangu Pati tried in the 1970s and the 1980s with some success. Parties which made inroads were United Pati, People’s Democratic Movement, Melanesian Alliance, and most recently People’s National Congress, People’s Action Party and National Alliance.

District that saved the Sepik from the law of ‘group think’ is Wosera Gawi. Though there were incidences of departure from the ‘group think’ in other districts Wosera Gawi made the break since 1985. Wosera Gawi has experience it must share with other districts.

The wall that politics of divide and rule put up since PNG’s independence on 16 September 1975 has been exposed. Very law of ‘group think’ is not a criterion for leadership in Wosera Gawi any more.

Landing the prize for carrying and scurrying for leader and father of the nation Wosera people in particular will share experience. Domestic issues in home province of leader will lead leaders to see how greedy Sepik leaders were.

Lot of leaders are lost and confused because they are ‘group think’ mindset.

Knowing leader and using sudden and abrupt power and arrogance of leadership leaders think that they have power. Arrogance is not a criterion for true leadership. It contrasts with humility as virtue.

Leader claiming to be god is landing credence to new leadership in the horizon.

People of Sepik will have new leaders in 2012. These leaders will work together for Sepik and PNG people.

Now people are restless. They are living in fear and anxiety. Leader of today has made the people feel powerless and hopeless without this leader. Such is the result of ‘group think’.

So we see rushing, pushing and shoving of projects in the two Sepik Provinces in the twilight years of the leader.

National Alliance Government is weak without Somare. This is evident in no heir apparent.

The danger for the people of Sepik is to follow their leaders to think that another National Alliance Government will arise. It’s time had expired.

Desperation tactics we have seen. It will get worse. Leaders want power for selfish ends. Our people must be aware of same old tactics.

In 2012 people of Sepik will share their experience with people of PNG.

Long live PNG.

Leader and great leader

By JAMES WANJIK

I am a keen follower of leadership debates and discussions in Papua New Guinea and do hope and pray that leaders will rise to great leaders.

In the last few months a deputy leader of a political party got deposed by a Court of Disputed Return for election fraud committed by election officials.

Now the same leader is duped as a great leader. Then a comparison is made with other past leaders of a region.

However, no criteria are set out for any meaningful comparison.

I have assisted the people of Wosera in East Sepik Province to look at quality leadership.

Here are 10 criteria for determining great leader.

1. Visionary

To be able to see into the future where and what Wosera people would be.

2. Charisma

To be able to draw Wosera people to the vision.

3. Servant hood

To be of service to the Wosera people.

4. Trustworthy

To lead with word and action.

5. Humble

To walk humbly with God and lovingly serve Wosera people.

6. Knowledgeable in government and politics of development

For removing obstacles know workings of government and policies and programs of government.

7. Wisdom of value-based leadership

Christian values and noble customs well understood and made part of life.

8. Noticeable role model

Inspire and enlist Wosera people to serve people.

9. Power of speech and word of wisdom

Oratory and wise use of language that captivates and motivates people for service.

10. People-centred development leader

Promoter of people as source, means, and end of development.

People have their own criteria.

Politics of popularity is not a criterion for a great leader. Model leader of all great leaders is Jesus Christ. He had lot of faith in His Father God and His greatness came from God. Great leaders are servants of their people.

Unfortunately PNG leaders are too egoistic. It is not a characteristic of leadership greatness.

Raging anti-Asian sentiment in Papua New Guinea

By ALFREDO P HERNANDEZ

ANTI-Asian sentiment is raging within the marginalised sector of Papua New Guinean society. It is being fanned by mistaken and misinformed notions that these foreigners who, by now, have succeeded in growing roots here are the cause of their money-related misery.

For them, Chinese, Malaysians, Filipinos, Vietnamese, Thais, Indonesians, Singaporeans, Japanese, Indians, Sri Lankans, Taiwanese and South Koreans belong to the same bunch of marauders who invaded the country and are now gradually taking away from them, in one way or the other, a lot of economic-based opportunities like jobs, businesses, and even commercial land and real estate.

Ironically, a similar adverse view would not necessarily apply to the white people – Americans Europeans, and yes, Australians – who are also here in PNG precisely to eke out a living.

The locals’ immediate targets are the Chinese who could be found all over Papua New Guinea, particularly in urban centers like Port Moresby, Lae, Goroka, Mt Hagen, among other places, where they operate flourishing small businesses from trade stores (retail shops) to fast-food outlets.

Obviously, the Chinese are the most visible in the community. While you seldom find them working as employees of business or government organisations the way other Asians do, you would see them instead behind busy counters of variety stores and fast-food bars.

Over the years, these entrepreneurs have grown in numbers although their coming here has not been noticed much as they just materialised in trickles. They did not come here to look for jobs as other Asians do, but to set up small enterprises using their own funds, if not capital from compatriots who are already established traders in the community.

Their success story in PNG is the same worn-out story line that I’ve heard of, or learned, about the Chinese in the Philippines. They were already in my home country even before the Spanish colonization began in March 16, 1521, and had co-existed with the colonisers in harmony since then, doing what they did best – trading.

So it was no surprise that even after the Spaniards abandoned the Philippines in 1898 to give way to the coming of another coloniser – the Americans – the Chinese had already entrenched themselves both in cities and in far-flung areas in the country, selling their goods to the locals and in so doing, helped enliven the economy of a rather sleepy rural community.

On the other hand, the other group of Asians came to PNG as professionals whose line of expertise have landed them sensitive jobs -- either as managers or administrative officers -- in banks, financing companies, import-export businesses, manufacturing entities, IT and telecommunications, among many other commercial and business concerns.

Many more came as skilled workers and technical people. Occasionally, they would serve as buffer workforce that assured businesses, factories and technical enterprises of uninterrupted operations even during times when one or more of their local counterparts would suddenly disappear from the workplace for reasons only God would know about.

These sensitive workplace functions are jobs which up to now have remained “off-limits” to most Papua New Guineans for the simple reason that they don’t have the necessary education, training, expertise, aptitude and proper attitude for such kind of responsibilities.

It is true that PNG universities and higher learning institutions have churned out new batch of graduates year in year out, but who are sadly unprepared to work the job. Unwilling to wait for this untrained workforce to learn the rope of the trade, employers are forced to fill the vacancies immediately and the only way to do this is to recruit from overseas. And employers – both local and foreign – are well aware of this anomaly.

There would not be much issue against Asian professionals and skilled workers who, since the recent past, have been arriving in Port Moresby in droves due to various developments in many sectors of the economy -- from mining and fishery to banking and finance, from gas-and-oil concerns to telecommunications.

The flurry of job-making in many industries led by mining, oil and fishery has deluged the labor department with some 14,000 work permit applications to date, and the number is rising. By they way, these could have been jobs for Papua New Guineans if only …

For instance, it was revealed the other day that at least 7,000 jobs reserved for citizens in the LNG (liquefied natural gas) project could not be filled up with local workforce as there are no qualified applicants from their rank.

So, the only way for the LNG project to fill up such positions is to hire foreign skilled workers, according to Labor and Industrial relations secretary David Tibu, who just testified before the bipartisan parliamentary committee hearing to look into the riots that broke last May and targeted Asian-owned-and- operated businesses.

Educated Papua New Guineans who are themselves gainfully employed would understand why there’s a need for professional and skilled expatriates in PNG’s economy. And they do appreciate Asian professionals being in their midst as they have proven to be a vital cog in the wheel of the industry.

Which brings to mind this question: Who are these people harboring hatred against Asians and are now agitating the government for their immediate expulsion from the country so they could takeover whatever enterprises these Asians have been successful with?

When the first anti-Asian riots broke out in Port Moresby and in urban centers in the Highlands last May, causing massive destruction to Asian-operated businesses as a result of violent looting, it was seen that the main players were nobody else but the local people who were either jobless, opportunists or just plain scum of the society.

As they assembled at the town plaza to prepare for their assault on Asian-operated trade stores, the decent and well-meaning members of the community cowered in fears at home, already precluding that the next several minutes would turn out violent. And they were not mistaken.

Last May’s anti-Asian rioting in Port Moresby and in key urban centers was the result of the participants’ basic awareness of what has been going on around them for so long: That their number is growing and there are no jobs for them; government services like healthcare, education and most importantly shelter, are not reaching them despite the massive tax revenues and royalties that the government generates from mining, oil and logging operations.

They have swarmed in settlement villages on the outskirts of the city and urban centers despite the lack of facilities for health, sanitation, source of clean water and most of all, a decent source of livelihood because back home in their own far-flung villages, there’s no presence of government and life was equally hard and desolate. So, being in the settlement would at least bring them close to the sources of economic opportunities like jobs, electricity and water. But in reality, this is not so.

Everyday, for lack of things to do, they would converge in the town square, or in spots next to the entrance of Asian stores and watch others enter the shops. And looking at the Chinese proprietor running the store counter manned by locals, they realised that he’s making a lot of money by the minute as hinted by the sound of the cash machine that seemed to never stop dinging.

In their mind, that money should have been theirs.

Aware of this kind of grassroots’ mentality, certain unscrupulous individuals from equally unprincipled NGOs (non-governmental organisations) and BCOs (community-based organisations) have taken advantaged of the marginalised sector’s ignorance and credulousness.

The NGOs/CBOs fed them the idea that the business these Asians are running right before their eyes are theirs – they are an enterprise exclusively reserved for them, and that it’s about time that they take it back from these foreigners, and banish them from the community for good.

Believing that it is as simple as that, the unsuspecting settlement people willingly took the bait. Last May, after a brief public rally where they were prepped on how such presence of Asians in the community was depriving them of their source of livelihood, short of stealing jobs from them -- they struck.

In one coordinated move, they attacked the shop workers and ransacked and looted the whole place of everything that was there for the taking before leaving it in total wreck.

The other day, the May incident was probed by the bipartisan parliamentary committee to know the reasons behind the violent rioting and looting that cost substantial losses and damages to the victimized Asian businessmen. Of course, without looking far, they would immediately see what triggered the people to attack the Asian proprietors: Grumbling stomachs.

But one thing is certain and this is bad news for anti-Asians: PNG is a flourishing economy; it is the new mecca after the Middle East for jobseekers and wealth-makers from Asia. This means many more Asians will be here for good.

China, now one of the biggest investors in PNG, has just signed a number of deals with the government involving massive economic interests related to the multi-million dollar LNG project. Not to mention, the Chinese-bankrolled billion-dollar nickel project in Madang that would surely assure many jobs for Chinese skilled technicians -- jobs that could not be filled up by locals.

Construction work at the nickel mine site is in full swing, involving about 3,500 workers – both local labor and Chinese expatriate technical people.

Another billion-dollar project that is now emerging in Madang is the PMIZ, short for Pacific Marine Industrial Zone. It is a tuna processing zone that would involve at least seven canneries bankrolled by foreign capital. The processing plants are projected to employ at least 30,000 locals and expat technical people.

But then again, PMIZ is expected to be populated by Asian investors, the very same group that some vested-interest-anti-Asian NGOs/BCOs are trying to block from coming in for some dubious reasons.

But anyway, the future job market scenario doesn’t look good for the members of the marginalised sector. There’s no way for them to be able to fit into the emerging industries. So it is no surprise if they would hate Asians more, and with instigation and provocation from the NGOs/BCOs, they would continue to pester them with their racist chants and sloganeering and violent rioting and looting for the media’s consumption.

Maybe, they would benefit from economic windfall if the government succeeds in involving them in various spin-off ventures arising from LNG, mining and fishery projects.

Again, this is a very complicated process as many project owners came to discover later and were dismayed over it because it added up to the cost of their operations and it did not come cheap.

With the quality of education the country offers to its young citizens from where many graduates leave the university clueless as to their chances in the job market because their training was not geared towards the reality of landing a job or making them self-employed, what are their chances under the present scenario?

Like that of the marginalised sector, it’s bleak.

Labor Sec Tibu has stressed at the parliamentary hearing: Vocational and apprentice training are not being pursued as vigorously before, and the big challenge for the government now is to enforce an honest-to-goodness vocational and apprenticeship training to meet the number of jobs on offer at LNG, mining and fishery projects.

Meanwhile, businesses must do what they have to do to protect their investment – hire Asians by all means.

Truly, I find it mind-boggling that PNG can’t even supply these ventures with home-grown welders!

So, what to do?

Email the writer: jarahdz500@online.net.pg

alfredophernandez@thenational.com.pg

To see the original website posting, please visit: http://www.batasmauricio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=799:raging-anti-asian-sentiment-in-png&catid=40:letters-from-port-moresby&Itemid=117

To see previous articles, please visit: http://www.batasmauricio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=40:letters-from-port-moresby&layout=blog&Itemid=117

Crude oil prices continue a "roller coaster ride"

Strong international demand for refined fuels has caused a slight increase in retail prices throughout Papua New Guinea.

The November price schedule has gasoline (ULP) about one per cent higher while diesel and kerosene will cost about 4 per cent more.

InterOil president Bill Jasper said a slightly improved U.S. economy had pushed crude oil to more than $US80 a barrel.

“This year fuel prices have been on a wild roller coaster ride.

“For five of the past twelve months prices have actually fallen, for the other months prices have increased.

“The net result is that today most fuels are cheaper than they were a year ago.

“ULP now costs about the same, diesel is about 5 percent cheaper and kerosene is currently about 10 percent less expensive, as compared to last year”.

Mr Jasper said that, despite the negative trend this month, price movements in the medium term had been in favour of the consumer.

“Overall the trend is good news for our retail, commercial and government customers”, he said.

“But it must be remembered that all domestic fuel prices result from pressures (upward and downward) exerted by the international market place.

“As with crude oil, the price of refined fuels is set internationally and beyond the control of the Government, the ICCC or ourselves”, he said.

Mr Jasper also stressed InterOil had to pay the full international market price for the crude oil it used in the refining process.

“We do not receive any special discount for PNG produced crude, even though we are a PNG-based refiner.

“Actually PNG produced crude is always sold at a premium to the benchmark crude for the region.

“Local crude is sold on the international market to the highest bidder and we have to compete against other refiners from other nations for locally produced crude oil”, Mr Jasper said.

For further information contact

Susuve Laumaea

Senior Manager Media Relations InterOil Corporation

Ph: (675) 311 2796

Mobile: (675) 7201 3870

Email: slaumaea@digicelpacific.blackberry.com

Thursday, November 05, 2009

Magnificent Mt. Wilhelm!

Text and photographs by Barry Greville-Eyres, naturalist and development practitioner working with the Goroka-based Fresh Produce Development Agency















Sunrise Mt. Wilhelm summit
For eco-tourists and adventure-junkies the Simbu Province and in particular the Mt Wilhelm scramble offers an off the beaten track experience that is hard to surpass. At 4509m this imposing edifice flies largely and surprisingly under the tourism radar in terms of exposure, commercialisation, public interest and actual visitor numbers. Herein rests, for me personally, its greatest appeal. Its offers its own, uniquely PNG rite of passage, taken and cherished by the few. Its route is relatively pristine, unfettered and devoid of hype and controversy.
In keeping with the notion of community-based sustainable tourism, almost every kina spent circulates within and boosts the local Kundiawa - Mt. Wilhelm economy. My five day sojourn was remarkably affordable, amounting to K1.200 inclusive of transport (Goroka – Mt. Wilhelm return), accommodation and food, trekking and guide fees and in all cases I was able to meet and pay, thoroughly deserving service providers, directly. This provided a level of engagement and intimacy rarely encountered – well beyond a mere financial or service transaction. Remarkable insights were gained into the people of the area – their dignity, resilience, serenity, warmth, humility and kinship for family and others and their deep, deep connection to the soil and land. It is hoped that this inherent environmental stewardship will support and demand measured and responsible development in the face of developmental challenges currently sweeping through PNG. The self determination and efforts of local landowners, farmers, mountain guides and lodge operators, in the provision of home-grown services, fruit and vegetables, and infrastructure, are applauded.















Camp Jehovah Jireh open for business
The recently established Camp Jehovah Jireh, offering rustic yet comfortable lodge-styled accommodation, is a classic example of local PNG entrepreneurship. The establishment and associated tour guiding services are consolidated under the Mt. Wilhelm Tours company, ably and passionately managed by former school teacher, Martin Thomas. Martin is working towards a ‘stable client base and thus far has attracted an interesting blend of corporate clients (government, volunteer service organisations, and donor assisted projects), international tourists and even a Japanese film production company currently engaged in making a documentary in the area.’














L – R Martin Thomas, Mt. Wilhelm Tours, the author and Paul Sugma, mountain guide prior to tackling Mt. Wilhelm
Recollections of my experience are as varied as they are intense – all making up a rich mental and emotional montage difficult, yet necessary, to share and articulate in the written word. Even pictorial images fall short of the mark but some stories need to be told – somehow. The road trip from Goroka to Kundiawa (traversing Eastern Highlands and Simbu Provinces) is fascinating, dramatic and breathtakingly beautiful – a fantasy farmland often regarded as the fruit, vegetable and coffee basket of PNG. One can hear, see, smell and feel luxuriant growth in profusion whether strawberries, kaukau, monstrous African yams, English cabbages, countless varieties of legumes and bananas and much
more. All natural, fresh, flavoursome, nutritious – as good as it will ever get! The roadside Agro-tourism potential of the area is immense, especially with show, tell, do and taste experiences.













PNG roadside snacks on offer
Summiting Mt Wilhelm, reputed to be one of the Pacific’s highest peaks, rates up there with Kenya’s Kilimanjaro, Namibia’s Fish River Canyon and South Africa’s Otter Trail and many of the world’s iconic treks. The walk in to the lake-side base camp (from Camp Jehovah Jireh) is a comfortable three to five hour amble taking in high forest, sub-alpine forest, grass and heath lands with dense stands of enormous tree ferns. The water catchment potential of the area is self-evident with swiftly flowing mountain streams and an abundance of swampy surface water. The base camp accommodation is simple but adequate, offering stunning views over the lower lake and a natural mountain amphitheatre, both of which are traversed in order to reach the summit.
The Mt.Wilhelm climb is exceedingly tough, bewildering, uncompromising and with a midnight ascent, lasting between four and seven hours, requires a moderate level of fitness and highly recommended conditioning at altitude. As with any remote, high altitude adventure there is a definite risk element involved and moderate on-trail care (steep ground security) and backup precautions should be taken. Our descent was far more sedate – close on eight hours, even at sub-zero temperatures, benefiting from daylight and panoramic views. Pockets of miniature alpine vegetation punctuate the austere yet intriguing moonscape and scree-slopes, clinging to a timeless existence alternating between daily freezing and thawing. Paul Sugma, my expert mountain guide and I were held in morbid fascination, for hours, by the wreckage of a large aircraft littering the slopes above the upper lake.















Upper lake en route to summit
We finally stumbled onto our base camp where interim relief was sought, for aching muscles and creaking joints, in the icy waters of the cobalt blue lower lake. Little did we know that, shortly before our departure, magnificent Mt. Wilhelm was about to offer up one final extravagance to crown a truly unforgettable experience.














Hooked - John proudly displays his sizable rainbow trout