Papua New Guinea, a land of breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage, stands at a crossroads as it prepares to celebrate 50 years of independence in 2025. For Rosalie Everest, an Australian who calls this country home, PNG’s future is as complex as its past. Having grown up on a coffee plantation in the Eastern Highlands and later teaching in the country, Rosalie has witnessed the nation’s triumphs and struggles firsthand. Her deep affection for PNG is undeniable, yet she also sees the urgent challenges it faces—urban drift, law and order, and an increasing population. But amidst these trials, her faith in the younger generation remains unshaken.
During her visit in July 2024, Rosalie made an emotional journey, bringing her mother Muriel Larner’s ashes to rest beside her father Wally Larner at the Old Kainantu Cemetery. Muriel had been a pioneering force, managing Arau Coffee Plantation after Wally’s passing and founding the Eastern Highlands Cultural Centre. Her legacy of resilience and cultural preservation lives on, a reflection of the enduring spirit Rosalie sees in Papua New Guinea’s people.
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Rosalie Everest |
The Urban Drift Dilemma
One of Rosalie’s greatest concerns is urban drift—the movement of rural populations to cities in search of better opportunities. Yet, she sees this trend leading to overcrowding, rising costs of living, and a greater strain on families.
“The best part of life in Papua New Guinea is in the rural areas,” she says. “In the villages, people have gardens, fresh water, and community. But in the towns, people come expecting jobs that don’t exist, leading to unemployment and crime.”
She acknowledges the weight of customary obligations, where educated individuals who succeed often carry the financial burden of extended families. While a beautiful aspect of PNG’s communal culture, this can be overwhelming in urban settings where costs are high, and opportunities are scarce.
Law and Order: A Challenge and a Deterrent
Law and order remain one of PNG’s biggest hurdles. For Rosalie, this is particularly heartbreaking because of the country’s untapped tourism potential.
“Papua New Guinea is one of the most unique places in the world—for its culture, geography, and wildlife. But many are too frightened to visit because of the stories they hear.”
While her recent visit was largely trouble-free, she recounts a minor incident that startled her sons at Koki Market. Yet, she insists that the true PNG is not what is often portrayed in negative headlines.
“Yes, there are challenges. But I refuse to be swayed by fear. I came back to visit my friends, my ex-students, my PNG family—and I have been safe.”
The Uncounted Population
Another concern Rosalie raises is the country’s rising population, which she fears is being underestimated due to census inaccuracies.
“If the government doesn’t have an accurate number of its people, how can it properly allocate resources?” she questions. Without precise data, critical infrastructure like schools, hospitals, and roads may not be built where they are needed most.
A Hopeful Future: The Power of Education
Despite these struggles, Rosalie remains optimistic. Her hope for PNG’s future lies in its young, educated citizens—those she once taught in national high schools, who are now stepping into leadership roles.
“I look at my former students—upstanding, driven men and women—working in social justice, agriculture, and business. Many of them are not just chasing profit but are working to uplift their industries and communities.”
She speaks proudly of an ex-student in the coffee industry, determined to ensure that more of the profits benefit local farmers. She admires the entrepreneurs who, despite the odds, continue to push forward with innovation and resilience.
“Every time they fall, they get back up. They refuse to give up. That’s what gives me confidence in this country’s future.”
The Spirit of Papua New Guinea
Through all the hardships, Rosalie sees something in Papua New Guineans that gives her lasting joy—their natural happiness, humor, and sense of community.
“People in Australia often say to me, ‘Rosie, you laugh a lot!’ I tell them, I learned to laugh because of Papua New Guinea. It’s a place where people share joy, no matter their circumstances.”
During her pilgrimage back to Kainantu, she was overwhelmed by the warmth of those who remembered her mother. “Everywhere I went, people welcomed me. ‘Oh, you’re Muriel’s daughter?’ They remembered her, and they made me feel at home.”
For Rosalie, PNG will always be home. It is a nation facing tremendous challenges, but also one filled with resilience, passion, and an unbreakable spirit. As it steps into its next 50 years, she hopes that this spirit—carried forward by a new generation of leaders—will guide it towards a brighter future.